Winter Travel Safety

While the stories of individuals lost in winter storms or trapped or sliding off the road and being trapped in their cars overnight are far less frequent than they once were, we can all be better prepared by simply packing a winter essentials kit in our cars. Keep a bag stocked and always present in your trunk. Kits should include, at minimum:

• Winter coat, hat, and gloves; ideally a blanket (or more than one) as well
• First-aid kit
• Some non-perishable food such as granola bars, or crackers; even just some hard candy can help
• Strike anywhere matches in a water-tight container
• Candles and an empty coffee can to melt snow; a cup is a good idea as well
• Flashlight with extra batteries
• Small tool kit or at least an all purpose tool
• Shovel
• Jumper cables
• Tire chains

During winter, keep the gas tank near full to help avoid ice in the tank and fuel lines. Don't forget to prepare your car for winter.

• Have the radiator system serviced, or check the antifreeze level yourself with an antifreeze tester. Add antifreeze, as needed.
• Replace windshield-wiper fluid with a wintertime mixture.
• Replace any worn tires, and check the air pressure in the tires.

GCH wishes you many safe travels!

The Family Fire Escape Plan

The most effective way to protect yourself and your home from fire is to identify and remove fire hazards. Sixty-five percent of home fire deaths occur in homes with no working smoke alarms. During a home fire, working smoke alarms and a fire escape plan that has been practiced regularly can save lives.

Smoke Alarms:
Install smoke alarms on every level of your home, inside bedrooms and outside sleeping areas. Teach children what smoke alarms sound like and what to do when they hear one. Once a month check whether each alarm in the home is working properly by pushing the test button. Replace batteries in smoke alarms at least once a year. Immediately install a new battery if an alarm chirps, warning the battery is low. Smoke alarms should be replaced every 10 years. Never disable smoke or carbon monoxide alarms. Carbon monoxide alarms are not substitutes for smoke alarms. Know the difference between the sound of smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms.

Fire Escape Planning:
Ensure that all household members know two ways to escape from every room of your home. Make sure everyone knows where to meet outside in case of fire. Practice escaping from your home at least twice a year and at different times of the day. Practice waking up to smoke alarms, low crawling and meeting outside. Make sure everyone knows how to call 9-1-1. Teach household members to STOP, DROP and ROLL if their clothes should catch on fire.

Five Easy Eco-Friendly Home Improvement Projects

Five Easy Eco-Friendly Home Improvement Projects for Under $50
(So easy, you have no excuse not to make them)

1. Install aerators on faucets - These screw-on mesh screens break up water droplets, so you use less water but get just as much rinsing power.
2. Clean your refrigerator coils - If they’re coated with dust, refrigerator coils can’t transfer heat efficiently, so it takes more energy to cool your food. Get at them (they’re usually found underneath the unit or at the back) with a long-handled brush.
3. Replace weatherstripping - Over time, the seals around windows and doors wear out, letting in the chill of winter air and prompting you to crank up the thermostat.
4. Reduce light pollution - Put a motion sensor on your all-night garage floodlight. Not only will you save electricity; you will get to enjoy one of early fall’s greatest pleasures: a clear view of the night sky.
5. Clean green - You don’t need dozens of toxic products. Soap, baking soda, and vinegar or lemon juice can take care of most household cleaning needs. For recipes, get the book Clean and Green, by Annie Berthold-Bond.

(courtesy of greenhomeguide.org)

Window Replacement: What's the Greenest Choice?

Are your windows collecting condensation or a frost buildup? In the winter, does your window feel colder than the rest of the house? Is the trim rotting, cracking or missing? You may be due for a replacement window or two. Anyone who has done a recent price-check on windows knows they are not a cheap update. While making such an investment in your home, why not be eco-friendly? The Greenandsave.com website offers a great article on updating or replacing windows: Window Replacement: What's the Greenest Choice?

Fall Chores: Clean Those Gutters!

Autumn...the leaves are falling, the chill is in the air, snow is right around the corner. Before you start packing up all the yard tools, you have one more chore to do...clean those gutters! Water trapped in gutters can cause major damage to your gutters, roof, and walls. Don't forget about those downspouts! Clogged downspouts can also present a problem. A pressure washer can sometimes be the best and fastest way to breakup debris. Simply insert sprayer tip into downspout and spray until unclogged. As always, if the project seems too dangerous or time consuming, hire a professional to do the job.

GCH Projects : Deer Clover Update

A photo update of the Steamboat Springs, CO Deer Clover project. We are currently in the exterior finishing stage. The 6300 sq ft home is located on an amazing lot, tucked into a vast Aspen grove, just below the infamous Fish Creek Falls trail head. The views of the Steamboat valley below and the mountain ranges beyond are breathtaking. The 3000 sq ft + decks and stamped concrete verandas, offer great outdoor spaces to take full advantage of the surroundings. Want a sneak peek? Contact Chris Paoli at 970.819.1432, chris@mybrokers.com, or visit his website at www.thepaoligroup.com.

GCH Projects : Deer Clover Update

GCH Projects : Deer Clover Update

GCH Projects : Deer Clover Update

GCH Projects : Deer Clover

The Paoli Group and Graham Custom Homes have partnered to create the Deer Clover project. The project broke ground mid 2009. This 6300 sq ft custom-built spec home is tucked into a vast Aspen grove, just below the infamous Fish Creek Falls trail head. The views through the 16 foot wide glass patio door to the Steamboat valley below and the mountain ranges beyond are breathtaking. Panoramic views from the vaulted great room are awe-inspiring. From the master suite and the private master deck, the Steamboat ski slopes jut into view. Deer Clover boasts six bedrooms, seven bathrooms, plus two powder rooms – including an ample sized guest suite. The oversized four-car garage offers additional storage in the loft area. The outdoor space does not pale by comparison. Over 3000 sq ft of decks and stamped concrete verandas including an outdoor grilling space and a wood-burning fireplace.

With the Paoli Group and Graham Custom Homes working together for you, you can expect a long term relationship and a commitment to surpassing your expectations. Chris Paoli is available to be reached at 970.819.1432, chris@mybrokers.com, or visit their website at www.thepaoligroup.com.

Energy Savers Booklet

The U.S. Department of Energy website offers a pdf format booklet: Energy Savers - Tips on Saving Money At Home. The booklet provides homeowners with tips for saving energy and money at home and on the road. By following just a few of the simple tips found in Energy Savers, you can make your home more comfortable and easier to heat and cool—while you save money. Energy Savers offers you the latest information on energy-saving, efficient technologies, plus tips for using clean, renewable energy to power your home. Some of the tips are simple to do, while others require more effort and investment. Check it out at http://www1.eere.energy.gov/consumer/tips/

Home Energy Audit

You may have heard the phrase "Home Energy Audit" before, but wondering what it entails? An energy audit is an inspection, survey, and analysis of energy flows for energy conservation in a building, process or system to reduce the amount of energy input into the system without negatively affecting the output(s). Simply put, it can help you assess how much energy your home uses and evaluate what measures you can take to improve efficiency. A home energy audit is often the first step in making your home more efficient and to lower your carbon footprint.

Not sure where to start? Your first step should be to contact your local utility and see if they offer a free home energy audit. Most public utilities will conduct home energy audits for their customers, free of charge. Or you may hire a professional Home Energy Auditor. The pros use a variety of techniques and equipment to determine the energy efficiency of your home. Thorough audits often use equipment such as blower doors, which measure the extent of leaks in the building envelope, and infrared cameras, which reveal hard-to-detect areas of air infiltration and missing insulation.

Fireplace Cleaning + Maintenance

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (USCPSC) reports, on average, 25,400 fireplace, chimney, or chimney connector fires a year. Fireplace safety begins with proper cleaning and maintenance. The safety guidelines set by the National Fire Protection Association call for annual professional inspections of all wood and coal stoves, fireplaces, chimneys, chimney connectors, and all other solid-fueled heating equipment. Follow up cleaning should be done according to inspection results.

The Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) offers these tips to keep wood burning fireplaces and wood stoves clean and clear from the top of the chimney to bottom of the firebox:

• Have chimneys inspected annually, and cleaned as necessary, by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep. This reduces the risk of fires and carbon monoxide poisonings due to creosote buildup or obstructions in the chimneys. To locate a certified sweep, visit the CSIA Web site at www.csia.org or call 1-800-536-0118. A certified sweep can also perform maintenance on your wood stove or help remove gas logs from a fireplace.
• Keep the top of chimneys clear of tree limbs or debris.
• Install a chimney cap to keep debris and animals out of the chimney.
• Fuel the fire safely. For burning firewood in wood stoves or fireplaces, choose well-seasoned wood that has been dried for a minimum of six months to a year and stored properly.
• Build it right. Place firewood or firelogs at the rear of the fireplace on a supporting grate. To start the fire, use a firelighter.
• Keep the hearth area clear. Debris too close to the fireplace, or to a wood stove, could easily catch fire.
• Use a fireplace screen. Use a metal, mesh or screen in front of the fireplace to catch flyaway sparks that could ignite.
• Be careful not to overload the fireplace. Add one manufactured firelog at a time or no more than a couple of pieces of firewood. Never burn garbage or glossy paper products.
• Install smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Place detectors throughout the house and make sure to check the batteries each month.
• Never leave a fire unattended. Before turning in for the evening, be sure that the fire is fully extinguished. Supervise children and pets closely around wood stoves and fireplaces.

For more information, please visit the Chimney Safety Institute of America at www.csia.org.

Time To Clean Those Dryer Vents!

Dryer not drying as well as it should? Then it is time to clean your dryer vent! This is one of those chores that should be on your honey-do list every six months. Cleaning your dryer vent will not only improve your dry time, it may prevent an unsafe situation in your home. The US Fire Administration reports that clothes dryer fires account for about 15,600 structure fires, 15 deaths, and 400 injuries annually. “Failure to clean” is the leading factor contributing to clothes dryer fires in residential buildings.

Unplug the clothes dryer from the electrical outlet. (If it's a gas dryer, turn off the gas supply to the dryer at the appliance shutoff valve.) Pull the dryer away from the wall and vacuum behind it. Unhook the tube that leads to the vent and clear as much lint from the tube as you can. Rinse the vent hose in the sink until it is clean or use a shop vacuum to remove as much lint as possible. Check for holes in the hose. If you find any holes replace the vent hose. Take it to any hardware store and make sure to buy the same size and the right length. Grab that shop vac, go outside, and tackle the outside dryer vent as well. Locate the external vent and remove the vent cover. You may have to scrape away some caulk from around the cover. The foot-long vent tube should slide right out. Remove lint from inside the hole. Slide the vent tube back in and replace the cover. Head back inside, plug the dryer back in and run the dryer for a few minutes to make sure air is unobstructed while flowing through the vent.

Low-Flow Faucets and Showerheads

Low-Flow shower heads and faucet aerators are the single most effective water conservation savings you can do for your home. The aerator (the screw-on tip of the faucet) ultimately determines the maximum flow rate of a faucet. Typically, new kitchen faucets come equipped with aerators that restrict flow rates to 2.2 gpm, while new bathroom faucets have ones that restrict flow rates from 1.5 to 0.5 gpm. For maximum water efficiency, purchase aerators that have flow rates of no more than 1.0 gpm. Some aerators even come with shut-off valves that allow you to stop the flow of water without affecting the temperature. When replacing an aerator, bring the one you're replacing to the store with you to ensure a proper fit.

Low-flow shower heads and faucet aerators are inexpensive to replace, simple to install, and can be one of the most cost-effective water conservation measures. They can reduce your home water consumption as much as 50% and reduce your cost of heating the water by as much as 50%. This conservation of water and energy is not only good for the environment, but the savings in your utility bills will pay for the cost of the aerators within a few months.

Local Harvest

Did you know the typical carrot has to travel 1,838 miles to reach your dinner table? Farmers markets are great places to shop and a great way to support the small, local farms, run by farmers who live on their land and work hard to preserve it. Truly, the best organic food is what's grown closest to you. You can also cut down on the use of fossil fuels used to haul food to the local supermarket, which leads to significantly reduced levels of pollution and resource depletion. This website can help you find farmers' markets, family farms, and other sources of sustainably grown food in your area, where you can buy produce, grass-fed meats, and many other goodies: http://www.localharvest.org/

Water Heater Sediment

Water heater manufacturers recommend flushing the sediment from the tank once a year. Sediment is the dirt, sand, and minerals from the water company or well, and is a normal part of a water system. Over time this sediment builds up in the bottom of your water heater. A deep layer of sediment displaces water and reduces the amount of hot water available for your use. It can also clog the drain valve and possibly affect the efficiency of the water heater. Water heater sediment can also slow the heat transfer and overheat the bottom of the tank. By cleaning your water heater regularly and flushing this sediment out, you will extend the life of your heater and will lower the energy and money required to run your water heater.

The Forest Stewardship Council

Today I was looking for eco-friendly landscaping and gardening tools. With a bit on online research, I came across the The Forest Stewardship Council (www.fscus.org). If you are not familiar with the FSC, it is an international non-profit to promote responsible management of the world’s forests. Its main tools for achieving this are standard setting, independent certification and labeling of forest products. FSC offers customers the ability to choose products from socially and environmentally responsible forestry.

The FSC offers a product search on their website to help you find retailers that stock a wide range of FSC-certified products such as paper, furniture, building materials (lumber, plywood, flooring, doors and windows), and other items like guitars, wood toys, even cosmetics and kitchenware. By choosing FSC-certified products, you are rewarding responsible forest management, benefiting people and nature, around the world.

Roof Problems

Roof leaks are not always caused by damaged or missing shingles. Roof problems may actually be due to broken or improper roof flashing. Repairing the flashing or providing new flashing may be all that is needed to make the roof watertight again. What is flashing? Flashing refers to thin continuous pieces of sheet metal or other impervious materials, offering extra protection at prone points of the roof. The function of flashing is to provide a watertight junction between roofing materials and roof projections or other parts of the structure, and between roof sections. The most common locations for roof flashing are at valleys,chimneys, roof penetrations, eaves, rakes, skylights, ridges, and at roof-to-wall intersections.

Many flashing problems can be reduced or eliminated by regularly scheduled inspection and maintenance. Save yourself the chore of repairing and painting ceilings and walls that were stained by water leaks and add 'check flashing' to your honey-do list.

Laying Sod

After many unsuccessful attempts at grass seed, I finally gave in and bought a few rolls of sod to patch the dead areas in the backyard. An afternoon of work and presto...lawn! Instant gratification! If you remember these four steps, sod is an easy fix for troublesome yard areas.

1. Soil Prep: Till the soil to four to six inches, rake it to remove sticks and stones and roots, then smooth the surface to make it even. Water the bare soil a day or two before you lay the sod to see if you have any low spots where water puddles up. Add top soil or re-grade to eliminate low spots.
2. Sod Install: Once the sod is delivered, lay it as soon as possible. You do not want your sod to dry out. Stagger the pieces you lay (make sure the corners of the sod aren’t in the same exact place for each row). Butt and push edges and ends against each other tightly, and stretch lightly. Avoid gaps as sod shrinks when it dries. Use a pocket knife or box cutter to cut any odd shaped pieces you need. When you've laid all the sod, you need to tamp down the grass so it makes solid contact with the soil underneath.
3. Watering: After 30 minutes of installation, give the lawn a good watering. Water it at least every day for two weeks to keep the soil moist but not soaked. After about two weeks, the sod should be firmly rooted in. After that, water every three days for the next two weeks. Water deep enough to wet the soil underneath the sod and to encourage the roots to plunge deeper into the soil.
4. Mowing: Wait about two to three weeks before mowing. Once the blades are about three inches high, cut just a little off the top. Every time after that, gradually reduce the height till the grass is an inch and a half tall.

Smoke Alarms + Your Safety

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) estimates more than 94% of homes have at least one smoke alarm. Sadly, here are more homes with smoke alarms that do not work, than homes without alarms. These poorly maintained units create a false sense of security for residents. Almost two-thirds of home fire deaths resulted from fires in homes with no smoke alarms or no working smoke alarms.

Safety tips provided by the National Fire Protection Association:

• Install smoke alarms in every bedroom, outside each separate sleeping area and on every level of the home, including the basement. Interconnect all smoke alarms throughout the home. When one sounds, they all sound.
• An ionization smoke alarm is generally more responsive to flaming fires, and a photoelectric smoke alarm is generally more responsive to smoldering fires. For the best protection, both types of alarms or a combination alarm (photoelectric and ionization) should be installed in homes.
• Test alarms at least monthly by pushing the test button.
• Smoke rises; install smoke alarms following manufacturer's instructions high on a wall or on a ceiling. Save manufacturer's instructions for testing and maintenance.
• Replace batteries in all smoke alarms at least once a year. If an alarm “chirps”, warning the battery is low, replace the battery right away.
• Replace all smoke alarms, including alarms that use 10-year batteries and hard-wired alarms, when they are 10 year old or sooner if they do not respond properly.
• Be sure the smoke alarm has the label of a recognized testing laboratory.
• Alarms that are hard-wired (and include battery backup) must be installed by a qualified electrician.
• If cooking fumes or steam sets off nuisance alarms, replace the alarm with an alarm that has a "hush" button. A "hush" button will reduce the alarm’s sensitivity for a short period of time.
• An ionization alarm with a hush button or a photoelectric alarm should be used if the alarm is within 20 feet of a cooking appliance.
• Smoke alarms that include a recordable voice announcement in addition to the usual alarm sound, may be helpful in waking children through the use of a familiar voice.
• Smoke alarms are available for people who are deaf or hard of hearing . These devices use strobe lights. Vibration devices can be added to these alarms
• Smoke alarms are an important part of a home fire escape plan.

Wood Siding Maintenance

Nothing really compares to the richness and character of natural, stained wood siding. Wood siding is an excellent choice for its visual appeal, but one must be aware of the maintenance required. If properly maintained, wood siding will last for decades. Also, some types of wood, such as redwood, cedar, and cypress, withstand the elements better than others and will last longer, but they still require some maintenance.

The recommended maintenance schedule for wood siding is to repaint at least every five years, and treat or stain every three years, depending on your climate. For example, in the mountain states where the sun and snow can be rather harsh, you might need to have your wood siding treated more often.

Repair methods vary depending on the type of siding you have, but the majority are fairly easy to fix. Renailing loose sheathing, replacing rotted elements and patching any holes or gaps on the underlying surface will help in maintaining your siding after it is repaired. Always identify and remedy the underlying problem before you repair the siding, or you will be back repairing the same problem again next summer.

Celebrate the Fourth

"You have to love a nation that celebrates its independence every July 4, not with a parade of guns, tanks, and soldiers who file by the White House in a show of strength and muscle, but with family picnics where kids throw Frisbees, the potato salad gets iffy, and the flies die from happiness. You may think you have overeaten, but it is patriotism". ~Erma Bombeck

Graham Custom Homes wishes everyone a very safe and happy Fourth of July!

Fireworks Safety + Children

It's an American tradition...the annual lighting of fireworks. Unfortunately, injuries from fireworks are another tradition that often seems to follow when kids are allowed to play with fireworks.

The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) reports that:

• there were 7 fireworks-related deaths in 2008 and 11 in 2007
• about 7,000 people were treated in emergency rooms for injuries associated with fireworks in 2008
• most injuries from fireworks occur in the few weeks around July 4th
• almost half of the injuries were to children under age 15
• firecrackers caused the most injuries, followed by rockets and sparklers
• burns are the most common injuries from fireworks

The best way to protect your family is not to use any fireworks at home. Attend public fireworks displays, and leave the lighting to the professionals. Lighting fireworks at home isn't even legal in many areas, so if you still want to use them, be sure to check with your local police department first. If they're legal where you live, keep these safety tips in mind:

• Kids should never play with fireworks. Things like firecrackers, rockets, and sparklers are just too dangerous. If you give kids sparklers, make sure they keep them outside and away from the face, clothing, and hair. Sparklers can reach 1,800° Fahrenheit (982° Celsius) — hot enough to melt gold.
• Buy only legal fireworks (legal fireworks have a label with the manufacturer's name and directions; illegal ones are unlabeled), and store them in a cool, dry place. Illegal fireworks usually go by the names M-80, M100, blockbuster, or quarterpounder. These explosives were banned in 1966, but still account for many fireworks injuries.
• Never try to make your own fireworks.
• Always use fireworks outside and have a bucket of water and a hose nearby in case of accidents.
• Steer clear of others — fireworks have been known to backfire or shoot off in the wrong direction. Never throw or point fireworks at someone, even in jest.
• Don't hold fireworks in your hand or have any part of your body over them while lighting. Wear some sort of eye protection, and avoid carrying fireworks in your pocket — the friction could set them off.
• Point fireworks away from homes, and keep away from brush and leaves and flammable substances. The National Fire Protection Association estimates that local fire departments respond to more 50,000 fires caused by fireworks each year.
• Light one firework at a time (not in glass or metal containers), and never relight a dud.
• Don't allow kids to pick up pieces of fireworks after an event. Some may still be ignited and can explode at any time.
• Soak all fireworks in a bucket of water before throwing them in the trash can.
• Think about your pet. Animals have sensitive ears and can be extremely frightened or stressed on the Fourth of July. Keep pets indoors to reduce the risk that they'll run loose or get injured.

If a child is injured by fireworks, immediately go to a doctor or hospital. If an eye injury occurs, don't allow your child to touch or rub it, as this may cause even more damage. Also, don't flush the eye out with water or attempt to put any ointment on it. Instead, cut out the bottom of a paper cup, place it around the eye, and immediately seek medical attention — your child's eyesight may depend on it. If it's a burn, remove clothing from the burned area and run cool, not cold, water over the burn (do not use ice). Call your doctor immediately.

Fireworks are meant to be enjoyed, but you'll enjoy them much more knowing your family is safe. Take extra precautions this Fourth of July and your holiday will be a blast!

Celebrate the Fourth in Steamboat!

We are getting geared up to celebrate a fantastic 4th in Steamboat Springs! Wondering what to do? Check out this fun-filled lineup of events.

Thursday, July 1:

• 9:00 - 10:30AM Downtown Historic Walking Tour, Tread of Pioneers Museum
• 12:15 - 1:00PM Music on the Green~ Meridian Quartet at Yampa River Botanic Park, Strings Music Festival (free admission)
• 8:00PM Jesse Cook at Strings Music Pavilion, Strings Music Festival
  

Friday, July 2:

• 10:00AM - 4:00PM Art on the Mountain in Gondola Square
• 12:00 - 1:00PM Brown Bag Lecture Series, Tread of Pioneers Museum
• 1:00 - 4:30PM Cow Town Ranch Tour, Community Agriculture Alliance
• 5:00 - 8:00PM First Friday Artwalk, downtown Steamboat Springs starting at 13th and Lincoln
• 5:00 - 8:00PM Steamboat Clay Artisans at The Depot
• 7:00 PM Mountain Valley Bank Ranch Rodeo at Romick Arena beginning with Heritage Ranch Family Awards (free admission)
• 8:00PM Jesse Cook at Strings Music Pavilion, Strings Music FestivalSaturday, July 3:
• 8:00AM Mountain Madness Road Race - Half Marathon & 10K at Howelsen Ice Rink
• 9:00 - 11:00AM Nordic Ski Jumping Competition at Howelsen Hill
• 9:00AM - 2:00PM MainStreet Farmer’s Market, 6th Street next to the courthouse
• 10:00AM - 4:00PM Art on the Mountain in Gondola Square
• 7:30 - 10:00PM Steamboat Springs Pro Rodeo Series at Romick Arena
• 8:00PM Multi-Media performance of Chamber music at Strings Music Pavilion, Strings Music Festival

Sunday, July 4:

• 7:00 - 10:00AM Pancake Breakfast at the Little Toots Park, Steamboat Springs Lions Club
• 9:30AM 5th Annual Cross Country/ Nordic Combined Roller Ski Race
• 9:40AM 19th Annual Steamboat Sprint - 400 yard dash at Lincoln Avenue, Running Series
• 10:00AM Fourth of July Parade presented by the Yampa Valley Bank Parade theme: Cowboys Dig Downtown
• 10:00AM - 4:00PM Art on the Mountain in Gondola Square
• 11:00AM - 1:00PM Pioneer Day Block Party at the Tread of Pioneers Museum featuring a free community concert
• 12:30PM 4th of July Ski Jump Extravaganza, Nordic Combined competition, Howelsen Hill
• 6:30PM Steamboat Springs Pro Rodeo Series - special performance at Romick Arena
• Approx. 9:30PM Fourth of July Fireworks display at dark following the end of the rodeo, Howelsen Hill

Eco-Friendly Summer Cooling Tips

The dog days of summer are here and the heat is on. Keeping our houses cool with air conditioners costs Americans about $11 billion a year. And those air conditioners release about 100 million tons of carbon dioxide into the air annually -- two tons for each home that has one. Looking for ways to stay cool this summer and reduce your carbon footprint and energy bill? Here are a few simple and inexpensive tips to help:

• Fans and Ceiling Fans: Fans don’t use much energy, but when air is circulating, it feels much cooler. Ceiling fans are best, but a good portable fan can be very effective as well.
• Shades, drapes, or blinds: Close blinds, shades and draperies facing the sun to keep the sun’s heat out and help fans or air conditioners cool more efficiently.
• Internal Heat: The most common sources of internal heat gain are appliances, electronic devices, and lighting. Be aware from where the heat is coming. By reducing the amount of heat in your home, you will have to use less energy to cool it.
• Plants: Deciduous trees planted on the south and west sides will keep your house cool in the summer and allow the sunlight to warm the house during the winter. Plant trees or shrubs to shade air conditioning units, but not block the airflow.
• Humidity: Humidity makes room air feel warmer, so reduce indoor humidity. Minimize mid-day washing and drying clothes, showering, and cooking.

AC Annual Service Check

Is your AC unit not cooling your house as well as it used to? Does your air conditioning unit make funny noises? Is your AC louder than it used to be? Has the humidity in your home increased? Is there condensation around the ducts? These are all signs that your air conditioner needs a bit of maintenance. Did you know that without regular maintenance, an air conditioner loses five percent of its original efficiency each year of operation? Not only is your AC working harder and harder to perform, but your energy bills are also getting higher. Perhaps the most important tip for maximizing your AC, then, is to keep it serviced. A properly serviced air conditioner will also do a better job of dehumidifying your home.

A service check should include: cleaning the condensing unit coils, checking the amp draw of the compressor, checking that belts are well adjusted, oiling the fan motors, checking the system operating pressures and temperatures against the manufacturers specifications, and last but not least, check the coolant level. A system can cost 20% more to operate if it's only 10% low on Freon. It is recommended the coolant level be checked each year. By taking care of these things each year, the cost of an annual tune-up is made up quickly in savings on your monthly electric bill and reduced repair costs.

Also check your AC filter once a month during the cooling season, and keep it clean. If the filter becomes clogged, your system will have to work harder to supply the same amount of cool air. A good maintenance plan should include filter replacements.

Happy Father's Day

Happy Father's Day to all you Dads out there. This quote made me laugh and wanted to share it with all of you.

"Fathers are the geniuses of the house because only a person as intelligent as we could fake such stupidity. Think about your father: He doesn't know where anything is. You ask him to do something, he messes it up and your mother sends you: "Go down and see what your father's doing before he blows up the house." He's a genius at work because he doesn't want to do it, and he knows someone will be coming soon to stop him." -- Bill Cosby

Sump Pump Maintenance

The sump pump. The strange-looking device in the corner of the basement we rarely think about until we need it. What exactly is it? A sump pump is usually an electric pump that is placed in the basement of a home, and used to pump water from the basement to outside the home. Sump pumps normally work in combination with a sump pit. The sump pit is simply a hole dug into the ground, generally in the basement of a house, which allows water to collect into it. The pump then pumps the water out of that sump pit hole. A basement sump pump is most often used in cases where the house's basement is below the water table level, and in places where flooding is common. Because a sump pump is a piece of mechanical equipment, it usually needs some type of cleaning and general maintenance on a regular schedule. In some areas it's best to clean the sump pump yearly, but if your pump is used heavily you should consider examining it every three to four months.


4 Month Inspection + Maintenance:

• Clean pump inlet screen
• Check power cord and make sure the cord is connected to power
• Dump a bucket of water into the sump to raise the float and make sure the pump turns on.

Yearly Inspection + Maintenance:

• Remove the pump from the sump and clean it and inspect it
• Clean out the sump
• Replace the pump in the sump
• Check power cord and make sure the cord is connected to power
• Dump a bucket of water into the sump to raise the float and make sure the pump turns on, adjusting the float if required.

Never take your pump apart yourself to clean it. Most manufacturers advise against cleaning them yourself as you might deal damage to the pump's mechanisms. Consult your manual for things that you can or cannot do to clean your pump. Otherwise, contact your manufacturer and qualified personnel for sump pump maintenance and intensive cleaning. You might void the warranty by doing the cleaning job yourself.

Summerize Your Home

Americans spend more than $22 billion a year and use a whopping 183 billion kilowatt-hours of electricity to cool their homes with air conditioning, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Remember, electricity prices tend to rise with the temperature, but you can trim your energy bills and still stay comfortable. Think "summerize". Many of the same weatherization products you use in the fall to protect your home, like weatherstripping, can work well in the summer, too.

• Hot summer heat can invade your home just like cold drafts in the winter. The most common area for air to penetrate a home is around window and door frames. Plug up air leaks with weatherstripping around the frame and use special door bottom seals for the floor. There are a variety of weatherstrip options, made from different materials and for an array of uses, so be sure to choose the correct weatherstripping for your project.
• Window air conditioning units can let in hot air and more. A poorly insulated window air conditioning unit can provide a way in for insects, dust and pollen. There are a variety of products to seal your window air conditioning unit that can be customized to the size and shape you need to stop cold air from escaping and bugs from entering your home.
• Home energy bills can rise with the thermometer. The hotter it gets outside, the harder your air conditioning works and the higher your electric bill soars. Weatherizing your home will help control the amount of cold air flowing out of and hot air entering your home.
• Year-round energy savings are a plus. Insulation is by far your best barrier to cold and hot air, providing savings throughout the seasons. Consider insulating your attic, walls and basement this summer.
• Warm air can sneak in through hidden places. Ideally, the wall cavity is filled with insulation to stop air leaks between the exterior cladding and walls of your home. Regardless if your home does or does not have insulation in the walls, hot summer air often enters the home around faceplates and wall sockets.
• Cold air can seep out of the chimney. Many homeowners enjoy their fireplaces throughout the cold winter days, but forget to close the flue when warm summer air returns. Don’t forget to close the flue.

Before Diving In...

Graham Custom Homes want you to have a safe and fun summer. Why not spend a few moments to check the safety of your pool? The Association of Pool and Spa Professionals offers this info on pool and spa safety:

• Responsible Adult Supervision: always have a responsible adult supervise children in any pool, spa, or hot tub environment.
• Drains, Suction Fittings, and Jets: proper grate, cover, and door installation prevents bodily harm. Make sure your drain covers meet the ANSI/ASME A112.19.8M standard.
  
• Diving: check and tighten bolts on all diving boards, slides, and platforms.
  
• Electrical Hazard: have a licensed electrician, experienced in swimming pools and hot tubs, inspect your electrical equipment.
• Ladders, Steps and Handrail: you should have adequate safe-entry and safe-exit methods in both ends of the pool and two sides of the spa or hot tub.
  
• Drowning Prevention: install and inspect fences, self-closing and latching gates, baby barriers, fences, and alarms. Check that you have all the necessary safety equipment; life rings, shepherd hooks, and lockable safety cover.
  

Free water safety brochures and additional information can be found at www.apsp.org. Have a safe and fun summer!

Deck Safety + Maintenance

June! Summer is here and so begins the summer chores. I walked around the backyard yesterday and couldn't help but notice the eyesore my back deck has become. Needing to clean, repair, and refinish the deck, I looked to the North American Deck and Rail Association (NADRA) for tips.

• Look for loose or corroded fasteners. This can be especially important — nails and screws can come loose or break as a deck settles, and it’s easy to trip and fall over a loose board.
• Give close inspection to railings, banisters and stairs. Push on your railings and banisters — there should be no movement. Take the time to make sure no balusters (railing pickets) are loose or missing.
• Do some quick cleaning. Use a broom or hose to remove any leaves or other debris from your deck. If you have a wood deck and you discover mold, take the time to properly remove it and then apply a waterproof sealant, carefully considering what harsh chemicals may do to your nearby landscaping. Composite and PVC decking may require a quick pressure-wash or scrub with a mild detergent.

While it’s quick and easy to fix a loose screw, you might want to seek a professional opinion if you’re noticing significant rot or are uncertain about how well your deck is attached to your house. You can check out other deck care and maintenance tips and deck safety at NADRA’s website. (www.nadra.org)

GCH Projects: Deer Clover

The Paoli Group and Graham Custom Homes have partnered to create the Deer Clover project. GCH's approach to creating your custom home is simple: quality, value, and service. At Graham Custom Homes, we offer truly unique and inspiring homes. We take pride in our high quality construction, our ability to deliver exceptional craftsmanship for maximum value and our superior customer service. A large component of The Paoli Group is a residential development division. Their philosophy and focus has been this: it all starts with a great home site in the right neighborhood. Chris Paoli has been developing property in the Steamboat Springs area since 2002. The Paoli Group was formed to help their clients accomplish their goals. Combining Chris’s market knowledge and investment/development experience with a professional marketing team our clients receive unparalleled representation in the Steamboat Springs real estate market. The Paoli Group commits their time and energy to the clients’ interests. With the Paoli Group and Graham Custom Homes working together for you, you can expect a long term relationship and a commitment to surpassing your expectations. Chris Paoli is available to be reached at 970.819.1432, chris@mybrokers.com, or visit their website at www.thepaoligroup.com.

Seal Your Investment!

We walk on it. We drive on it. We park on it. Do you consider your driveway to be an important investment? It is and it requires regular maintenance and care, especially if it is subjected to harmful conditions (harsh winter weather, de-icing salts, oil/gas leaks). Consider applying a sealer to preserve and protect your investment. Most of us put off sealing driveways until the fall, but the spring is an ideal time to do it. The outside temperature needs to be at least 55 degrees and no rain is expected within 36 hours. Once your driveway is coated with a sealer, stains are easier to clean and cracks caused by severe weather are less likely to occur.

Step 1: Clean the Driveway
Use dishwasher detergent and water to remove gas and oil stains. Dirt, weeds and rocks must be extracted from all cracks. The use of a pressure-washer is your best option to thoroughly clean your driveway. Allow the surface adequate time to dry.

Step 2: Repair Cracks
Cracks in your driveway and the products to fill those cracks come in all shapes and sizes. To repair smaller cracks, you can use filler that comes in a can or a dispenser similar to a caulking gun. Larger cracks could require a cold patch material packed tightly into the hole. Allow filler materials adequate time to dry.

Step 3: Apply Sealer
Stir the sealer thoroughly, then pour, brush or spray the protective coating on the driveway. Keep in mind that some sealer manufacturers recommend a light misting of water on the surface as the sealer is applied. Use a push broom, brush, roller or squeegee to spread the sealer. Allow the sealer 24 hours to dry. For best results, you should apply at least two coats of sealer every two to three years.

Electrical Safety

When was the last time you thought about the electrical system in your home? Let alone checked it? Take a few moments to look around your home and check a couple of items. Those few minutes spent walking through your house is time well spent.

• Look for burn marks at the main electrical panel; they can be a sign of arcing inside the panel, which can easily lead to a fire. Loose connections or damaged insulation can cause the arcing. Note: Only a qualified electrician should remove the front panel cover.
• Trip and reset the circuit breakers regularly.
• Remove any combustible materials such as paper boxes or flammable liquids from the area near the main electrical panel. Sparks caused by arcing inside the panel can ignite material stored nearby.
• Check all electrical outlets for loose-fitting plugs they are an indication of a worn out receptacle. Worn receptacles should be replaced as they cause overheating and fires. Also check electrical outlets and switches to be sure they work properly. If any switches, outlets or receptacles do not work, have a qualified electrician determine the problem and fix it to avoid fires inside the walls of your home.
• Install safety covers to help protect children from electrical shock. Any appliance or tool that gives even the slightest shock should be unplugged and checked by an electrician or repair shop.

New Tree Planting

The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is the early spring before budbreak or during the dormant season in the fall after leaf drop. Follow these simple steps and you can significantly reduce the stress placed on the plant at the time of planting.

1. Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make the hole wide, as much as three times the diameter of the root ball but only as deep as the root ball. It is important to make the hole wide because the roots on the newly establishing tree must push through surrounding soil in order to establish.
   
2. Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted. If the trunk flare is not partially visible, you may have to remove some soil from the top of the root ball.
   
3. Remove tree container for containerized trees. Carefully cutting down the sides of the container may make this easier. Inspect the root ball for circling roots and cut or remove them. Expose the trunk flare, if necessary.
4. Place the tree at the proper height. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. If the tree is planted too deeply, new roots will have difficulty developing because of a lack of oxygen. It is better to plant the tree a little high, 2 to 3 inches above the base of the trunk flare, than to plant it at or below the original growing level.
   
5. Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm that the tree is straight.
   
6. Fill the hole gently but firmly. Fill the hole about one-third full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the root ball. Then, if the root ball is wrapped, cut and remove any fabric, plastic, string, and wire from around the trunk and root ball to facilitate growth. Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause roots to dry out. It is not recommended to apply fertilizer at the time of planting.
7. Stake the tree, if necessary. Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting. However, protective staking may be required on sites where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy conditions are concerns. Remove support staking and ties after the first year of growth.
8. Mulch the base of the tree. A 2- to 4-inch layer is ideal. More than 4 inches may cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels. When placing mulch, be sure that the actual trunk of the tree is not covered. Doing so may cause decay of the living bark at the base of the tree. A mulch-free area, 1 to 2 inches wide at the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent decay.
9. Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but not soaked; overwatering causes leaves to turn yellow or fall off. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue until mid-fall, tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent watering.

Lackluster Lawns...

Now that the snow has melted, your lackluster lawn is showing. Want to improve the appearance of your lawn, but not sure where to start? GCH has a few spring lawn care tips to share with you.

Get out the Rake!
Spring raking removes winter debris and opens up the air spaces between grass plants allowing air to penetrate down into the crown to combat developing fungus problems. Raking also removes any dead or dying grass plants and is good for the health of the lawn.

Aerate that Lawn!
If your lawn is subjected to high levels of traffic year after year, it may eventually start to show signs of decline. In such cases, your lawn is probably suffering from compaction. Aeration is the remedy to compaction. For best results, aeration should be done once in the spring, before fertilization, and once in the fall, after de-thatching.

Toss the Seed!
Look at those bare patches! Many things cause bare patches, such as dog spots, heavy traffic or neglect. Apply grass seed to fill in those bare patches. Keep the grass seed well watered until established, and do not mow or walk on it for a month or so.

Feed the Green Beast!
Springtime calls for a fertilizer that's lighter on the nitrogen and a little heavier on the phosphorous will encourage good strong roots. Exercise restraint folks...use a light hand and a light nitrogren mix. Nitrogen-rich fertilizer will encourage outrageous top-growth to the detriment of your lawn's roots.

Mow High!
Mowing short is more stressful on grass than lighter cuts and allows the soil to dry out faster. Mowing higher allows more shade to the soil which leads to less watering; deeper roots which leads to less watering; thicker turf which leads to fewer weeds; slower growth which leads to less mowing.

Chores Chores Chores! Gutters & Downspouts.

Taking the time to clean, maintain, and repair downspouts and gutters can double or even triple the life of your roof drainage system. This can save you a lot of money on repair costs. It may prevent damage to your home’s interior due to flooding through the foundation and walls or leaks in the roof due to seepage of water.

Improper drainage due to poor roof pitch is one of the biggest causes of roof drainage problems. Improper drainage causes water to accumulate in certain spots in the gutters, ultimately building up debris and accelerating rust. Clogged gutters and downspouts can also be a big problem. Thoroughly clean all debris from the gutters and downspouts at least twice a year. If there are a number of trees near your home, clean the gutters with a whisk broom even more often than twice a year. Carefully examine them in the spring just before the spring rains. Inspect them again in the fall when leaves, limbs and other debris might cause problems.

How To: Simple Compost Bin

Want to starting composting? We did, but didn't want to spend a large amount of cash on the pre-made bin found at most home improvement stores. By recycling or purchasing a plastic container with a secure lid, you can easily create your own bin in minutes. In fact it's so easy – you'll wonder why you didn't make one sooner. The bin will make compost quicker and cleaner than compost piles.

• Recycle or buy a plastic pail/bin with a tight fitting lid. The bigger the storage bin is, the better...but choose the size that is right for you. Drill small holes in the bottom, sides, and lid of your container, one to two inches apart, for aeration and to help it decompose faster.
• Place some shredded newspaper or dry leaves on the bottom of your compost bin. Add dirt from your garden on top of the newspaper, until your container is about half full.
• Add any food scraps or paper products into compost such as tea bags, fruit, vegetables, coffee grounds, egg shells, paper towels, etc. Anything you put into the bin should be chopped/shredded fairly small so it will break down quicker in the small space. After you add your food and paper scraps, simply mix your fertilizer until all of the food is covered in dirt.
• Place your compost bin in a shady area away from your home in the back yard. Be sure your compost is not in full sun or your compost will dry out. Spray with water until moist, but not soaking wet...think wrung-out sponge.
• Every other day or so, as you add food scraps to bin, you should give it a stir. Mixing the compost will help breakdown the scraps faster. If your pile starts to smell like anything other than fresh dirt, you may not have the right combo of 'greens' and 'browns'. If the contents of the bin are staying very wet, or there is an unpleasant odor coming from the bin, you'll need to add some shredded fall leaves, shredded newspaper, or sawdust to the bin (the browns). These will dry it out and help restore the ratio of greens to browns that makes compost happen more quickly. If the contents are very dry, use the spray bottle to moisten the contents, or add plenty of moisture-rich items such as fruits or veggies (the greens).

Wait about 2 months to use your compost. Your garden, flower beds, and container plants will benefit from the added nutrients and organic matter!

Green Garden!

A few tips on using fewer pesticides and chemicals in your garden.

• Hang some nesting boxes, put out some bird seeds and allow the birds to nest in an area near your garden. Didn't you know that birds can eat pests like snails and slugs. No chemicals required.
• Leave some mulch lying near your garden in a pile. Soon the ground beetles will nest underneath it. Ground beetles will then eat many of your other gardening pests.
• Allow some of your vegetables to go to flowers. The flower will attract the bumble bees, allowing for the pollination process to begin.
• Want to try composting but don't think you have room for a big compost container? Try a small wormer instead. You add peelings to the wormer just as you would a composter. The worms will appear and break down your peelings into small amounts of garden compost. You can then use this compost as top dressings for your container plants.
• Catch rain water in a rain container. You will need a container with a lid. If you can find one that also has a faucet, it will be easier for you to remove the water. Open the lid when it is raining to catch the water. Close when it isn't raining, so you do not cause a contamination of mosquitoes and to keep other things out of the water. You can then use the water for watering your plants and seedlings.

Spring Home Maintenance

Ah...spring in almost upon us. We cannot forget about a few simple spring projects for our homes. These spring home maintenance tips are essential for problems not to build up. Home maintenance can save you big money on unnecessary repairs. With these home projects you can improve the longevity of your home.

• Check for loose or leaky gutters. Improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space. Make sure downspouts drain away from the foundation and are clear and free of debris.
• Low areas in the yard or next to the foundation should be filled with compacted soil. Spring rains can cause yard flooding, which can lead to foundation flooding and damage. Also, when water pools in these low areas in summer, it creates a breeding ground for insects.
• Use a screwdriver to probe the wood trim around windows, doors, railings and decks. Make repairs now before the spring rains do more damage to the exposed wood.
• From the ground, examine roof shingles to see if any were lost or damaged during winter. If your home has an older roof covering, you may want to start a budget for replacement. The summer sun can really damage roof shingles. Shingles that are cracked, buckled or loose or are missing granules need to be replaced. Flashing around plumbing vents, skylights and chimneys need to be checked and repaired by a qualified roofer.
• Examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of damage. Have the flue cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep.
• Inspect concrete slabs for signs of cracks or movement. All exterior slabs except pool decks should drain away from the home's foundation. Fill cracks with a concrete crack filler or silicone caulk. When weather permits, power-wash and then seal the concrete.
• Remove firewood stored near the home. Firewood should be stored at least 18 inches off the ground at least 2 feet from the structure.
• Check outside hose faucets for freeze damage. Turn the water on and place your thumb or finger over the opening. If you can stop the flow of water, it is likely the pipe inside the home is damaged and will need to be replaced. While you're at it, check the garden hose for dry rot.
• Have a qualified heating and cooling contractor clean and service the outside unit of the air conditioning system. Clean coils operate more efficiently, and an annual service call will keep the system working at peak performance levels. Change interior filters on a regular basis.

Rainwater Collection

During dry months, 40 percent of the average household's water consumption goes to outdoor watering. Rather than needlessly draining that water out of the faucet, gather rainfall in a rain barrel connected to the gutter system—and use it to keep the lawn and garden green. Just an inch of rainfall on a 1,000-square-foot roof will accumulate over 600 gallons of fresh water. When picking out a barrel, here are a couple things to look for:

• Choose a model topped with a mesh screen that will keep debris out of the barrel and a lid that prevents mosquitoes from using the water as a breeding ground when it's not raining.
• Look for a barrel equipped with a side spigot where a hose can be attached and watering cans can be easily filled
• Also, most rain barrels can hold up to sixty gallons of water, so make sure it's parked on a strong and steady surface.

Your Carbon Footprint

First of all, what is a carbon footprint? A carbon footprint is a measure of the impact our activities have on the environment, and in particular climate change. It relates to the amount of greenhouse gases produced in our day-to-day lives through burning fossil fuels for electricity, heating and transportation etc. The carbon footprint is a measurement of all greenhouse gases we individually produce and has units of tonnes (or kg) of carbon dioxide equivalent.

A carbon footprint is made up of the sum of two parts, the primary footprint and the secondary footprint:
1. The primary footprint is a measure of our direct emissions of CO2 from the burning of fossil fuels including domestic energy consumption and transportation (e.g. car and plane). We have direct control of these.
2. The secondary footprint is a measure of the indirect CO2 emissions from the whole lifecycle of products we use - those associated with their manufacture and eventual breakdown. To put it very simply – the more we buy the more emissions will be caused on our behalf.

The average American's yearly carbon footprint is just about 20 tons, according to the United Nations; the global average is just a shade under 4 tons each year. This is not something we can be proud of for being first -- America is way, way out in front here, and that's a huge problem. Want to reduce your carbon footprint? The best place to start is with the heating and cooling systems, which account for 44 percent of the average home's energy use. Cut the energy used to cool and heat your home by 10 percent and you will have reduced your overall household energy use by 4.4 percent. (For the sake of comparison, a corresponding improvement in lighting efficiency will cut your energy use by 1.1 percent.)

What is your carbon footprint? Find out here: http://www.nature.org/initiatives/climatechange/calculator/

Making Home Affordable

The Federal Housing Finance Agency has extended the government’s Home Affordable Refinance Program by 12 months. HARP’s new end date is June 30, 2011.

Originally known as Making Home Affordable, HARP aims to help Arizona homeowners refinance their mortgage who may otherwise be ineligible because of falling home values.

There are 4 basic HARP criteria every borrower must meet:

1. The existing home loan must be guaranteed by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac.
2. Your home must be a 1- to 4-unit property
3. You must have a perfect mortgage payment history going back 12 months. No 30-day lates allowed.
4. Your first mortgage balance must be 125% or less of your home’s market value

If you’re not sure whether Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac back your mortgage, you can look it up. Fannie’s website is http://www.fanniemae.com/loanlookup; Freddie’s is http://freddiemac.com/mymortgage. If you don’t locate your loan on either website, your mortgage is backed by a third-party and is not HARP-eligible.

For homeowners that meet HARP’s criteria, there are some underwriting details of which to be aware.

First, if your original mortgage does not require mortgage insurance, your HARP mortgage will not require it, either — regardless of your new loan-to-value.

Second, all HARP refinances require income verification. It doesn’t matter if your original mortgage was a stated income or no income verification loan. You should expect to produce 1040s and W-2s for your HARP refinance and asset statements, too.

And, lastly, second (and third) mortgages may not be “rolled in” to a new first mortgage loan balance. Junior lien holders must agree to remain in a junior lien position, regardless of combined loan-to-value.

There is a thorough HARP FAQ section on the government’s website, but it’s for general questions only. For specific Home Affordable Refinance Program information, first make sure you’re program-eligible, then pick up the phone to call your loan officer.

HARP is complex enough that you’ll want to talk with a human before taking a proper next step.

Tips for a Quick Home Sale in a Tough Market

Here's a few tips to selling your house in a tough market.

1. You have to seriously undercut the competition.
Selling a home in a down market almost inevitably means settling for a disappointing price. But to unload your home fast, you're going to have to dip 10% to 15% below what comparable homes in your neighborhood recently sold for. You still may not be able to compete with foreclosures and short sales, but at least you stand a chance of getting buyers to notice your listing. To prevent yourself from becoming overly attached to your asking price, try to determine the lowest possible offer you'd accept before your listing hits the market. That will help remove your emotions from the negotiating process later on.

2. Outside fixes have the biggest impact.
Since your house won't be cheaper than the distressed property down the block, it has to look far better. But you may not have the time or money to redo the kitchen, so focus on cosmetic improvements that will bring the most buyers to your door. Spending a grand can go a long way toward improving your home's exterior. Get the outside of your house power-washed, paint the door, replace the knocker, and hire a gardener to give your yard some TLC.

3. First-timers are your friend.
The most efficient way to market your home is to target the most likely buyers. First-timers bought over half the homes purchased so far this year, thanks to a new federal tax credit and the flexibility to buy without the burden of selling another property (super-low mortgage rates don't hurt either). The average age of the first-time buyer: 30. To boost your chances of reaching the Gen-Y crowd, get yourself a snazzy online presence (see No. 4) and spread the word about your next open house through social networks like Facebook and Twitter.

4. Online tricks will make your home pop.
Buyers are faced with thousands of listings. Help them find yours by peppering your description with amenity keywords like "deck," "pool," and "granite counters". Then make sure they like what they see by using a wide-angle lens to make your rooms look bigger in pictures. And set your home at the lowest end of its price range; a $299,000 home will seem expensive to a buyer in the $250,000 to $300,000 range, but a $301,000 home is a deal to someone looking between $300,000 and $350,000.

5. Your secret weapon is a speedy deal.
It can take months for banks to approve a deal for a short sale or a foreclosed property. Make sure your agent lets potential buyers know that you can close the deal within a few weeks. Another advantage you hold over distressed sellers: the ability to be creative in negotiations. If a potential buyer is wavering, offer to pay part or all of the closing costs or cover a year's worth of association fees. At the very least, consider throwing in some new appliances or a paint job. After all, in this market no one is going to want a home that doesn't seem like a bargain.

Top 10 Inexpensive Repairs Before Selling

When you put a home up for sale these days, you're facing stiff competition. In most parts of the country, buyers are faced with huge numbers of homes for sale. Before asking strangers to trade hundreds of thousands of their hard-earned dollars for your little palace, make all the little repairs you've always meant to do but never had the time for.

These 10 basic repairs will help prepare your house for a buyer's white-glove inspection:

1. Repair sagging screen doors and other entry red flags.
The entrance to your home is the key to first impressions. Make sure everything at the entrance is in working order. If the screen door is sagging, you'll probably have to install a new one, as aging aluminum parts often become too bent or broken to repair. Patrol the perimeter of your home, inspecting it with the critical eye of a stranger. Clear dead plants from flower beds, clip dead blossoms and stems, rake and haul the yard waste far away. A fresh coat of paint on the front door goes miles toward establishing a great first impression. Drive around for some inspiration and to see what colors prevail in your community. In some towns, a bright red door, or a deep plum, looks great. In others, it'll seem over the top. Forest green, navy blue and black can be great door colors. The front door need not match the exterior colors of your house and trim, only look good alongside them.

2. Spiff up the roof.
Missing shingles and hanging gutters broadcast a loud, scary signal to potential buyers. Get a roofer to replace any missing or broken shingles or roofing tiles. Moss growing on the roof signals neglect, so it's important to get it cleaned off. Ask a roofing expert to remove moss or to recommend someone who can. When hiring someone to work on your roof, it's crucial to check their recommendations. Amateurs can damage your roof with the careless use of a high-pressure power washer.

3. Clear and caulk gutters.
On a dry day, climb up on a ladder and clear all the debris out of the gutters so water can flow freely. While you're up there, recaulk the gutter end caps, aging caulk allows leaks to drain water down your home's siding. Get started by drying the clean gutter; the drier the aluminum, the better caulk will bond to its surface.

4. Patch nail holes and repaint.
Moving inside the house, you'll want to patch up nail holes in the walls. Ask at a hardware store for lightweight putty. Apply it with a putty knife and fill in each hole, scraping the excess off the wall. Following directions on the package, wait for it to dry. Then sand the putty until it's smooth and flush with the wall. Paint the repaired spots with primer. Call a handyman for anything bigger than a nail hole, as it's not easy to blend bigger repairs into the wall.

5. Check the smell of your house.
When strangers enter a home, the first thing they notice is the smell. Don't even try hiding behind scented candles, potpourri and plug-in room fragrances. Buyers, ever suspicious to problems, catch a whiff of those and conclude that you're hiding something. In the kitchen and bathrooms, deep clean with bleach, then regrout tiles and recaulk cracks between sinks, tubs, toilets, counters and floors to seal out the moisture that encourages the growth of smelly mold, mildew and bacteria.

6. Replace damaged vinyl flooring.
Inspect the vinyl flooring in your bathrooms. If it has discolored spots or is loose, moisture may be damaging the floor. You'll probably want a professional to lay the actual flooring, which could cost $400 or more. But you can save as much as half of the cost by preparing the floor yourself. Remove the baseboards by pulling them away from the walls with a small pry bar. Next, pull up the flooring using a larger pry bar -- it will be glued and nailed or stapled. Also remove the next layer, called the underlayment, made of particleboard or layered plywood. While your new floor is being installed, you can sand and repaint the baseboards so the whole job will look terrific when it's finished.

7. Reseal the toilet.
Not all flooring installers will remove and reinstall the toilet, something that must be done to replace the floor. Pulling the toilet yourself can save you money. With plumbers' fees running about $85 an hour (with a minimum hour and a half charge for a house call), you could save yourself $200 or more (for two trips) by pulling the toilet yourself. Even if you aren't replacing flooring, the seals may need replacing. How to tell? If the toilet rocks when someone sits down, or if the floor at the base is moist or discolored, the seal could be broken. Corroded nuts that hold the toilet to the floor are another sign that the toilet needs to be reinstalled. Before you begin, shut off the water supply at the faucet behind the toilet. Flush the toilet, holding down the handle to drain as much water as possible. Use a wrench to unscrew the bolts holding the toilet to the floor. Don't move the toilet alone. Get a friend to help, because toilets are heavy and cumbersome, and the tanks are easily cracked. Prepare a bed of old cushions or towels in the bathtub and set the toilet there gently so any drips drain into the tub. At a hardware store, find two wax toilet seals (also called gaskets, about $3 apiece). One seal is conformed to fit into the sewer pipe; the second is a plain wax circle that you'll stack directly on top of the first. (Also at the store, purchase two new bolts -- about $1.50 each.) Back home, remove the old gaskets. Fit the new shaped gasket into the mouth of the sewer pipe first; put the second seal directly over it so the toilet fits into the space with no gaps. Lower the toilet over the seals. Screw in the new bolts, tighten them, reconnect the water supply and caulk the base of the toilet.

8. Stop faucet drips.
A dripping faucet calls attention to itself, and it's not hard to fix. Shut off the water supply to the faucets by turning the valves under the sink to the right. Then, test the faucet to make sure you've shut the water off completely. While you're looking under the sink, check for moisture on the wall around the valves and on the floor of the sink cabinet. Also check the supply lines leading to the dishwasher and disposal. If those areas are wet, get a plumber. If you've got a newer, rotating, single-arm faucet (through which both hot and cold water run), note the brand and purchase a faucet rebuild kit (roughly $50) at the hardware store. Inside the faucet arm is a metal ball on a stem that lets the handle swivel while allowing water to flow in any direction. The kit contains the six to 12 parts most likely to fail, including that metal ball, O rings, springs and gaskets. The idea is to replace them all rather than trying to diagnose the exact source of the problem. Dismantle the faucet, laying the parts out in order on a paper towel. Snap a photo or draw a sketch to help you with reassembly. Replace the old parts, put the faucet back together and turn the water back on. For older faucets with independent hot and cold water faucets, shut off the water under the sink as before then dismantle each of the sink's faucets separately. Remove the washers (rings made of rubber, plastic or brass), put them in a plastic sandwich bag and bring them to the hardware store to find replacements. Reassemble the faucets and turn the water back on.

9. Renew dinged baseboards.
Beat-up baseboards detract greatly from the appearance of your home, and they're easy to spiff up. First, clean them to remove scrapes and smudges left by clawing pets and toddlers on wheels. A Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponge works great on painted surfaces. Fill in dents with spackle, sand the baseboards smooth and repaint them. If you've lost the name of the original paint color, chip off a coin-sized bit, slip it into an envelope and bring it to the paint store where you can have the color computer matched. Use primer before painting. Don't just retouch small areas; paint the entire piece of baseboard, from one end to the other. Choose a washable eggshell finish. White is a great choice for making baseboards and trim look crisp and clean.

10. Repair cabinet scratches.
You can quickly improve the look of unpainted woodwork and worn cabinets with an application of products that even out the surface color. Scratches on woodwork and cabinets can be covered with Old English Scratch Cover or a Tibet Almond Stick (you can find these at hardware and home-improvement stores). The almond stick goes on clear but covers scratches. The almond stick works best with shallow surface scratches on dark finishes. It doesn't work in every case, he says, and even a good result may fade with time and need to be reapplied periodically. Old English makes separate formulations for light or dark wood. These are oily stains, so use them carefully. Try out any products first in a corner where results will not be noticed. Do not use the dark stain on light wood. Finally, polish wood cabinets to a glow with lemon oil.