GCH Projects: Deer Clover

The Paoli Group and Graham Custom Homes have partnered to create the Deer Clover project. GCH's approach to creating your custom home is simple: quality, value, and service. At Graham Custom Homes, we offer truly unique and inspiring homes. We take pride in our high quality construction, our ability to deliver exceptional craftsmanship for maximum value and our superior customer service. A large component of The Paoli Group is a residential development division. Their philosophy and focus has been this: it all starts with a great home site in the right neighborhood. Chris Paoli has been developing property in the Steamboat Springs area since 2002. The Paoli Group was formed to help their clients accomplish their goals. Combining Chris’s market knowledge and investment/development experience with a professional marketing team our clients receive unparalleled representation in the Steamboat Springs real estate market. The Paoli Group commits their time and energy to the clients’ interests. With the Paoli Group and Graham Custom Homes working together for you, you can expect a long term relationship and a commitment to surpassing your expectations. Chris Paoli is available to be reached at 970.819.1432, chris@mybrokers.com, or visit their website at www.thepaoligroup.com.

Seal Your Investment!

We walk on it. We drive on it. We park on it. Do you consider your driveway to be an important investment? It is and it requires regular maintenance and care, especially if it is subjected to harmful conditions (harsh winter weather, de-icing salts, oil/gas leaks). Consider applying a sealer to preserve and protect your investment. Most of us put off sealing driveways until the fall, but the spring is an ideal time to do it. The outside temperature needs to be at least 55 degrees and no rain is expected within 36 hours. Once your driveway is coated with a sealer, stains are easier to clean and cracks caused by severe weather are less likely to occur.

Step 1: Clean the Driveway
Use dishwasher detergent and water to remove gas and oil stains. Dirt, weeds and rocks must be extracted from all cracks. The use of a pressure-washer is your best option to thoroughly clean your driveway. Allow the surface adequate time to dry.

Step 2: Repair Cracks
Cracks in your driveway and the products to fill those cracks come in all shapes and sizes. To repair smaller cracks, you can use filler that comes in a can or a dispenser similar to a caulking gun. Larger cracks could require a cold patch material packed tightly into the hole. Allow filler materials adequate time to dry.

Step 3: Apply Sealer
Stir the sealer thoroughly, then pour, brush or spray the protective coating on the driveway. Keep in mind that some sealer manufacturers recommend a light misting of water on the surface as the sealer is applied. Use a push broom, brush, roller or squeegee to spread the sealer. Allow the sealer 24 hours to dry. For best results, you should apply at least two coats of sealer every two to three years.

Electrical Safety

When was the last time you thought about the electrical system in your home? Let alone checked it? Take a few moments to look around your home and check a couple of items. Those few minutes spent walking through your house is time well spent.

• Look for burn marks at the main electrical panel; they can be a sign of arcing inside the panel, which can easily lead to a fire. Loose connections or damaged insulation can cause the arcing. Note: Only a qualified electrician should remove the front panel cover.
• Trip and reset the circuit breakers regularly.
• Remove any combustible materials such as paper boxes or flammable liquids from the area near the main electrical panel. Sparks caused by arcing inside the panel can ignite material stored nearby.
• Check all electrical outlets for loose-fitting plugs they are an indication of a worn out receptacle. Worn receptacles should be replaced as they cause overheating and fires. Also check electrical outlets and switches to be sure they work properly. If any switches, outlets or receptacles do not work, have a qualified electrician determine the problem and fix it to avoid fires inside the walls of your home.
• Install safety covers to help protect children from electrical shock. Any appliance or tool that gives even the slightest shock should be unplugged and checked by an electrician or repair shop.

New Tree Planting

The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is the early spring before budbreak or during the dormant season in the fall after leaf drop. Follow these simple steps and you can significantly reduce the stress placed on the plant at the time of planting.

1. Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make the hole wide, as much as three times the diameter of the root ball but only as deep as the root ball. It is important to make the hole wide because the roots on the newly establishing tree must push through surrounding soil in order to establish.
   
2. Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted. If the trunk flare is not partially visible, you may have to remove some soil from the top of the root ball.
   
3. Remove tree container for containerized trees. Carefully cutting down the sides of the container may make this easier. Inspect the root ball for circling roots and cut or remove them. Expose the trunk flare, if necessary.
4. Place the tree at the proper height. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. If the tree is planted too deeply, new roots will have difficulty developing because of a lack of oxygen. It is better to plant the tree a little high, 2 to 3 inches above the base of the trunk flare, than to plant it at or below the original growing level.
   
5. Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm that the tree is straight.
   
6. Fill the hole gently but firmly. Fill the hole about one-third full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the root ball. Then, if the root ball is wrapped, cut and remove any fabric, plastic, string, and wire from around the trunk and root ball to facilitate growth. Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause roots to dry out. It is not recommended to apply fertilizer at the time of planting.
7. Stake the tree, if necessary. Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting. However, protective staking may be required on sites where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy conditions are concerns. Remove support staking and ties after the first year of growth.
8. Mulch the base of the tree. A 2- to 4-inch layer is ideal. More than 4 inches may cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels. When placing mulch, be sure that the actual trunk of the tree is not covered. Doing so may cause decay of the living bark at the base of the tree. A mulch-free area, 1 to 2 inches wide at the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent decay.
9. Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but not soaked; overwatering causes leaves to turn yellow or fall off. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue until mid-fall, tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent watering.

Lackluster Lawns...

Now that the snow has melted, your lackluster lawn is showing. Want to improve the appearance of your lawn, but not sure where to start? GCH has a few spring lawn care tips to share with you.

Get out the Rake!
Spring raking removes winter debris and opens up the air spaces between grass plants allowing air to penetrate down into the crown to combat developing fungus problems. Raking also removes any dead or dying grass plants and is good for the health of the lawn.

Aerate that Lawn!
If your lawn is subjected to high levels of traffic year after year, it may eventually start to show signs of decline. In such cases, your lawn is probably suffering from compaction. Aeration is the remedy to compaction. For best results, aeration should be done once in the spring, before fertilization, and once in the fall, after de-thatching.

Toss the Seed!
Look at those bare patches! Many things cause bare patches, such as dog spots, heavy traffic or neglect. Apply grass seed to fill in those bare patches. Keep the grass seed well watered until established, and do not mow or walk on it for a month or so.

Feed the Green Beast!
Springtime calls for a fertilizer that's lighter on the nitrogen and a little heavier on the phosphorous will encourage good strong roots. Exercise restraint folks...use a light hand and a light nitrogren mix. Nitrogen-rich fertilizer will encourage outrageous top-growth to the detriment of your lawn's roots.

Mow High!
Mowing short is more stressful on grass than lighter cuts and allows the soil to dry out faster. Mowing higher allows more shade to the soil which leads to less watering; deeper roots which leads to less watering; thicker turf which leads to fewer weeds; slower growth which leads to less mowing.