-
Less is more
- If you step on your lawn and the grass springs
back, it does not need to be watered. In addition to
wasting water, over-watering can increase
leaching of fertilizers into ground water and can harm your
lawn and plants. Watering plants too much and
too frequently also results in shallow roots, weed growth,
disease, and fungus. Familiarize yourself with
the settings on your irrigation controller and adjust the
watering schedule regularly to conform with
seasonal weather conditions.
-
Use alternative sources of water
- To further reduce your water consumption,
consider using alternative sources of irrigation water, such as gray
water,
reclaimed water, and collected rainwater via
rain barrels. Most of the water we use to irrigate landscapes is
treated, potable drinking water. By reducing the amount
of drinking water used for landscape irrigation,
we reduce the burden on water treatment facilities, which helps
reduce the need for water treatment works
expansion. Homes with access to alternative sources of irrigation water
can reduce their water bills significantly.
However, in some drought-prone localities, reclaiming water is not
allowed; therefore, check with public health or
municipal officials before using alternative sources of water.
Information on local water regulations may be
available on local government Web sites.
-
Make every drop count
- The typical single-family suburban household uses at least 30 percent of their water for irrigation.
Some experts estimate that more than 50 percent of landscape water goes to waste due to evaporation or
runoff caused by over-watering. Easy ways to lower water bills and get more water to plants
include:
- Water in the early morning-if you water at mid-day, much of the water just evaporates. Evening watering should be avoided because it can encourage the growth of mold or plant diseases.
- Water lawns separately from other plantings. Make sure sprinklers are not watering pavement.
- Water new trees and shrubs longer and less frequently than shallow-rooted plants, which require smaller amounts of water more often. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems for trees and shrubs. Note: Once established, trees and shrubs in many areas of the U.S. generally do not require any watering, exceptions being arid regions.
- When using a hose, control the flow with an automatic shut-off nozzle.
- Minimize or eliminate chemical fertilizing, which artificially promotes new growth that will need additional watering.
- Raise your lawn mower cutting height - longer grass blades help shade each other, reduce evaporation, and inhibit weed growth.
- When soil is dry or compacted, it won't absorb water quickly. If water puddles, stop watering until the water has time to soak in.
- Amend your soil with compost and mulch to hold water and reduce evaporation.
- When outdoor use of city or well water is restricted during a drought, use the leftover water from the bath or sink on plants or the garden. Don't use water that contains bleach, automatic-dishwashing detergent, fabric softener, or other chemicals.
- In a dry spell, you can also allow an established lawn to go dormant in non-arid parts of the country. Water just once a month and brown areas of the lawn will bounce back in the fall.
Thursday, June 27, 2013
Irrigation Practices
Did you know that watering too much or too little is the cause of many common plant health problems?
You can have healthier plants, save money on water bills, and conserve precious water resources by
learning to give your lawn and garden just what they need, and no more.
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
Water-Efficient Irrigation
With common watering practices, a large portion of the water applied to lawns and gardens is not absorbed by the plants. It is lost through evaporation, runoff, or by watering too quickly or in excess of the plants' needs. Efficient irrigation systems and practices reduce these losses by applying only as much water as is needed to keep your plants and lawn healthy.
Although not watering your lawn, garden, or other landscape is the most water-efficient practice, sometimes irrigation is necessary. Irrigating lawns, gardens, and landscapes can be accomplished either manually or with an automatic irrigation system.
Manual watering - Manual watering with a hand-held hose tends to be the most water-efficient method, as households that manually water with a hose typically use 33 percent less water outdoors than those who use an automatic irrigation system. Households with automatic timers use 47 percent more water; those with in-ground sprinkler systems use 35 percent more water; and those with drip irrigation systems use 16 percent more water than households that manually water.
Automatic irrigation systems - Drip-type irrigation systems, including water efficient spray heads, are considered the most efficient of the automated irrigation methods because they deliver water directly to the plants' roots. In-ground sprinkler and drip irrigation systems need to be operated and maintained properly to be water-efficient. Install system controllers such as rain sensors that prevent sprinklers from turning on during and immediately after rainfall, or soil moisture sensors that activate sprinklers only when soil moisture levels drop below pre-programmed levels.
While controllers come in all types of shapes and sizes, the most important features are how well they can be programmed to handle diverse landscape and weather conditions. Consider purchasing one with a weather-based controller. It is also important to revise your watering schedule as the seasons change. Over-watering with automated sprinklers is most common during the spring and fall because irrigation schedules are set to summer watering needs.
Source: http://www.epa.gov
Although not watering your lawn, garden, or other landscape is the most water-efficient practice, sometimes irrigation is necessary. Irrigating lawns, gardens, and landscapes can be accomplished either manually or with an automatic irrigation system.
Manual watering - Manual watering with a hand-held hose tends to be the most water-efficient method, as households that manually water with a hose typically use 33 percent less water outdoors than those who use an automatic irrigation system. Households with automatic timers use 47 percent more water; those with in-ground sprinkler systems use 35 percent more water; and those with drip irrigation systems use 16 percent more water than households that manually water.
Automatic irrigation systems - Drip-type irrigation systems, including water efficient spray heads, are considered the most efficient of the automated irrigation methods because they deliver water directly to the plants' roots. In-ground sprinkler and drip irrigation systems need to be operated and maintained properly to be water-efficient. Install system controllers such as rain sensors that prevent sprinklers from turning on during and immediately after rainfall, or soil moisture sensors that activate sprinklers only when soil moisture levels drop below pre-programmed levels.
While controllers come in all types of shapes and sizes, the most important features are how well they can be programmed to handle diverse landscape and weather conditions. Consider purchasing one with a weather-based controller. It is also important to revise your watering schedule as the seasons change. Over-watering with automated sprinklers is most common during the spring and fall because irrigation schedules are set to summer watering needs.
Source: http://www.epa.gov
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Xeriscape
Re-naturalize your lawn or xeriscape
In many areas of the country, including the Northeast, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and Pacific Northwest, you can convert areas of your lawn to a more natural landscape by allowing the area to grow as it would if the lawn were not there. Don't mow, fertilize or apply pesticides. Don't rake leaves. Spread mulch if you want to help kill back the grass within the naturalizing area. With time (2-5 years), this will allow native plants to take root, re-establish their presence through succession, as well as help restore natural habitat. This also means you'll use less fertilizer and pesticides and you won't have to mow the re-naturalized area! Although the re-naturalized area may not appear very attractive for a while (and a neighbor may even raise a comment or two), it can help to spread mulch and plant some ornamental plants appropriate for your climate to give the re-naturalizing area a garden-like appearance as it gets established. You can do as much of this as you wish to achieve a happy balance between a totally natural look and a garden look. Once the native vegetation has replaced the lawn, small shrubs, vines, bushes, trees and other natural vegetation will dominate and create a maintenance-free portion of your yard. Eventually the vegetation will grow thick and dense and provide a nice visual screen or green buffer between your home and surrounding properties when leafed-out. Re-naturalized areas help to absorb rainwater better than lawns and can lead to less storm water runoff from your property. Once you have achieved the desired size of the re-naturalized area, you can encircle it with field stone or other edging materials, if you wish.
Also consider re-naturalizing areas with steep slopes, shade, or along streams and lakes, where it takes a lot of extra work to maintain grass. Leaving, or creating, a "buffer" of dense native vegetation along streams and lakes will filter and slow runoff, shade and cool the water, provide homes for wildlife, and prevent stream bank erosion.
In arid parts of the country such as the West, Southwest, and Rocky Mountain regions, consider xeriscaping, a cost-effective and increasing popular landscaping option. Xeriscaping takes many forms but is defined as landscape design tailored to withstand drought conditions, by using draught tolerant plants and grouping plants with similar watering needs. Xeriscaped landscapes also require little or no fertilizer or pesticides, and have lower maintenance needs than lawns.
Source: http://www.epa.gov
In many areas of the country, including the Northeast, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and Pacific Northwest, you can convert areas of your lawn to a more natural landscape by allowing the area to grow as it would if the lawn were not there. Don't mow, fertilize or apply pesticides. Don't rake leaves. Spread mulch if you want to help kill back the grass within the naturalizing area. With time (2-5 years), this will allow native plants to take root, re-establish their presence through succession, as well as help restore natural habitat. This also means you'll use less fertilizer and pesticides and you won't have to mow the re-naturalized area! Although the re-naturalized area may not appear very attractive for a while (and a neighbor may even raise a comment or two), it can help to spread mulch and plant some ornamental plants appropriate for your climate to give the re-naturalizing area a garden-like appearance as it gets established. You can do as much of this as you wish to achieve a happy balance between a totally natural look and a garden look. Once the native vegetation has replaced the lawn, small shrubs, vines, bushes, trees and other natural vegetation will dominate and create a maintenance-free portion of your yard. Eventually the vegetation will grow thick and dense and provide a nice visual screen or green buffer between your home and surrounding properties when leafed-out. Re-naturalized areas help to absorb rainwater better than lawns and can lead to less storm water runoff from your property. Once you have achieved the desired size of the re-naturalized area, you can encircle it with field stone or other edging materials, if you wish.
Also consider re-naturalizing areas with steep slopes, shade, or along streams and lakes, where it takes a lot of extra work to maintain grass. Leaving, or creating, a "buffer" of dense native vegetation along streams and lakes will filter and slow runoff, shade and cool the water, provide homes for wildlife, and prevent stream bank erosion.
In arid parts of the country such as the West, Southwest, and Rocky Mountain regions, consider xeriscaping, a cost-effective and increasing popular landscaping option. Xeriscaping takes many forms but is defined as landscape design tailored to withstand drought conditions, by using draught tolerant plants and grouping plants with similar watering needs. Xeriscaped landscapes also require little or no fertilizer or pesticides, and have lower maintenance needs than lawns.
Source: http://www.epa.gov
Monday, June 24, 2013
Landscaping and Irrigation
Of the 26 billion gallons of water consumed daily in
the United States, approximately 7.8 billion gallons, or
30 percent, is devoted to outdoor uses. The majority of
this is used for irrigation. In the summer, the amount
of water used outdoors by a household can exceed the
amount used for all other purposes in the entire year. This
is especially true in hot, dry climates.
Many people believe that stunning gardens and beautiful lawns are only possible through extensive watering, fertilization, and pesticide application. However, eye-catching gardens and landscapes that save water, prevent pollution, and protect the environment are, in fact, easily achieved. The following are some water-efficient landscaping and irrigation methods.
Choose climate-appropriate, drought-tolerant, and native/adapted plant species The typical suburban lawn consumes 10,000 gallons of water above and beyond rainwater each year. Using native plants and landscape designs that optimize local conditions can reduce irrigation water use, as well as reduce soil erosion, lower maintenance costs, and preserve natural resources.
Reduce turf grass areas
How and where turf is placed in the landscape has a significant impact on the amount of irrigation water needed to support the landscape. Lawns require a large amount of supplemental water and generally more intensive maintenance than other vegetation. Use turf grass where it aesthetically highlights your house and where it has a practical function, such as in play or recreation areas. Grouping turf areas can increase watering efficiency and significantly reduce evaporative and runoff losses. Select a type of grass that can withstand drought periods and become dormant during hot, dry seasons. Consider replacing Kentucky blue grass (the most common turf outside of the Southern U.S.) with low water grasses. There are now many options widely available that demand up to 2/3 less water. Appropriate amounts of water and the natural dormant periods mean the grass will go brown during the summer, but watering it once a month will allow it to spring back later.
Plant shrubs, trees and other vegetation in place of lawns or bare, eroding areas
Trees, shrubs, or other leafy plants help absorb, intercept and slow down rainfall, thereby reducing runoff. After a rainfall, large quantities of water are retained on the surface of leaves in the form of droplets. Subsequently, plants help control storm water runoff. Plants also absorb carbon dioxide (a principle greenhouse gas), and they help cool the earth's surface; both functions help to reduce global warming.
Source: http://www.epa.gov
Many people believe that stunning gardens and beautiful lawns are only possible through extensive watering, fertilization, and pesticide application. However, eye-catching gardens and landscapes that save water, prevent pollution, and protect the environment are, in fact, easily achieved. The following are some water-efficient landscaping and irrigation methods.
Choose climate-appropriate, drought-tolerant, and native/adapted plant species The typical suburban lawn consumes 10,000 gallons of water above and beyond rainwater each year. Using native plants and landscape designs that optimize local conditions can reduce irrigation water use, as well as reduce soil erosion, lower maintenance costs, and preserve natural resources.
Reduce turf grass areas
How and where turf is placed in the landscape has a significant impact on the amount of irrigation water needed to support the landscape. Lawns require a large amount of supplemental water and generally more intensive maintenance than other vegetation. Use turf grass where it aesthetically highlights your house and where it has a practical function, such as in play or recreation areas. Grouping turf areas can increase watering efficiency and significantly reduce evaporative and runoff losses. Select a type of grass that can withstand drought periods and become dormant during hot, dry seasons. Consider replacing Kentucky blue grass (the most common turf outside of the Southern U.S.) with low water grasses. There are now many options widely available that demand up to 2/3 less water. Appropriate amounts of water and the natural dormant periods mean the grass will go brown during the summer, but watering it once a month will allow it to spring back later.
Plant shrubs, trees and other vegetation in place of lawns or bare, eroding areas
Trees, shrubs, or other leafy plants help absorb, intercept and slow down rainfall, thereby reducing runoff. After a rainfall, large quantities of water are retained on the surface of leaves in the form of droplets. Subsequently, plants help control storm water runoff. Plants also absorb carbon dioxide (a principle greenhouse gas), and they help cool the earth's surface; both functions help to reduce global warming.
Source: http://www.epa.gov
Monday, June 17, 2013
A Few Thoughts on Ladder Safety
Ladders are tools. Many of the basic safety rules that apply to most tools also apply to the safe use of a ladder:
- If you feel tired or dizzy, or are prone to losing your balance, stay off the ladder.
- Do not use ladders in high winds or storms.
- Wear clean slip-resistant shoes. Shoes with leather soles are not appropriate for ladder use since they are not considered sufficiently slip-resistant.
- Before using a ladder, inspect it to confirm it is in good working condition.
- Ladders with loose or missing parts must be rejected.
- Rickety ladders that sway or lean to the side must be rejected.
- The ladder you select must be the right size for the job
- The Duty Rating of the ladder must be greater that the total weight of the climber, tools, supplies, and other objects placed upon the ladder.
- The length of the ladder must be sufficient so that the climber does not have to stand on the top rung or step.
- When the ladder is set-up for use, it must be placed on firm level ground and without any type of slippery condition present at either the base or top support points.
- Only one person at a time is permitted on a ladder unless the ladder is specifically designed for more than one climber (such as a Trestle Ladder).
- Ladders must not be placed in front of closed doors that can open toward the ladder. The door must be blocked open, locked, or guarded.
- Read the safety information labels on the ladder.
- The on-product safety information is specific to the particular type of ladder on which it appears. The climber is not considered qualified or adequately trained to use the ladder until familiar with this information.
- Never jump or slide down from a ladder or climb more than one rung/step at a time.
When climbing a ladder, it is safest to utilize Three Points-of-Contact because it minimizes the chances of slipping and falling from the ladder. At all times during ascent or descent, the climber must face the ladder and have two hands and one foot, or two feet and one hand in contact with the ladder cleats and/or side rails. In this way, the climber is not likely to become unstable in the event one limb slips during the climb. It is important to note that the climber must not carry any objects in either hand that can interfere with a firm grip on the ladder. Otherwise, Three Points-of-Contact with the ladder cannot be adequately maintained and the chance of falling is increased in the event a hand or foot slip occurs. Factors contributing to falls from ladders include haste, sudden movement, lack of attention, the condition of the ladder (worn or damaged), the user’s age or physical condition, or both, and the user’s footwear.
Although the user’s weight or size typically does not increase the likelihood of a fall, improper climbing posture creates user clumsiness and may cause falls. Reduce your chances of falling during the climb by:- wearing slip-resistant shoes with heals and heavy soles to prevent foot fatigue;
- cleaning the soles to maximize traction;
- using towlines, a tool belt or an assistant to convey materials so that the climbers hands are free when climbing;
- climbing slowly and deliberately while avoiding sudden movements;
- keeping the center of your belt buckle (stomach) between the
ladder side rails (or within the width of the cleats) when climbing and
while working. Do not overreach or lean while working so that you don’t
fall off the ladder sideways.
Source: http://www.laddersafety.org
Friday, June 14, 2013
The Gutters...
Clean guttersTake advantage of dry weather to clear
out leaves, needles and debris, leaving gutters free to carry rainwater
away and protect your home from mold and rot. Depending on your home's
surroundings, you should do this several times a year. Hire someone
(around $50 to $100) or get a stable ladder (and someone to hold it) and
do it yourself. Use a garden trowel or your (gloved) hands to muck out
the debris. Scrub gutters with a non-metallic brush. Slosh water from a
hose through the gutters and the drainpipes to finish the job and test
that they're clear and that water is flowing away from your basement,
foundation or crawl space.
Inspect gutters
While you're at it, inspect the gutters. Look for joints separating, loose connections and attachments, sags, dips and corrosion. Tighten or reattach loose gutter connections. Clean out downspout ends (also called "leaders"). These should extend out at least 3 feet at the ground, though some experts suggest 5 or 10 feet. The idea is to prevent water from running back to your home's foundation. At the same time, take care that your downspouts don't drain onto your neighbors' property, causing problems for them. Some cities have ordinances regulating the distance you can discharge your gutters from your property line (ask for details at the city planning department). After you've cleaned and repaired your gutters, test them by having someone run a hose into the gutters while you walk around the house, looking for leaks and observing where the water drains. Or walk around the house to check during the next heavy rainstorm.
Source: Marilyn Lewis of MSN Real Estate
Inspect gutters
While you're at it, inspect the gutters. Look for joints separating, loose connections and attachments, sags, dips and corrosion. Tighten or reattach loose gutter connections. Clean out downspout ends (also called "leaders"). These should extend out at least 3 feet at the ground, though some experts suggest 5 or 10 feet. The idea is to prevent water from running back to your home's foundation. At the same time, take care that your downspouts don't drain onto your neighbors' property, causing problems for them. Some cities have ordinances regulating the distance you can discharge your gutters from your property line (ask for details at the city planning department). After you've cleaned and repaired your gutters, test them by having someone run a hose into the gutters while you walk around the house, looking for leaks and observing where the water drains. Or walk around the house to check during the next heavy rainstorm.
Source: Marilyn Lewis of MSN Real Estate
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
May Maintenance...the Windows!
Wash windows
Cleaning all the windows and window coverings in your home is a big, satisfying and several-hours-long project. Choose a sunny day and, if possible, get someone to work with you.
Remove curtains and blinds if you can. Clean windows and window trim, inside and out. Start by brushing (with a dry broom) or dusting the trim. If it's really dirty, wipe it down with a rag and soapy water. Outdoors, use a hose to rinse off the soap. To clean the glass, use a good-quality squeegee, the tool of professional window washers. Before purchasing a squeegee, check the width of your smallest windows. Assemble a pole (unscrew the handle from a broom) that fits your squeegee's handle, a microfiber cloth and a bucket. Use a few drops of liquid dish soap or a teaspoon of TSP in a two-gallon bucket of warm water. Many professionals like TSP, or trisodium phosphate, a powdered stain remover and degreaser found at hardware stores, for a streak-free finish. Caution using TSP: In a hot solution, it can remove or take the gloss off paints and can darken aluminum or wood. Apply the cleaning solution with a rag or mop. Immediately squeegee it off, wiping the blade between strokes to minimize dripping. Do one window at a time. Use the squeegee on the pole for hard-to-reach places. Consider engaging a professional to do second-story windows.
Clean and repair window screens
On a sunny day, take window screens out of storage and lay them on the grass, sidewalk or deck. Dust with a soft cloth or brush off dust with a clean paint brush. Dip a big (roughly the size of your hand), soft-bristle brush in warm, soapy water and gently scrub each side of the screen. Hose off each screen and put them in the sun to dry. Avoid tearing or pulling screens from their frames. You can mend small tears with a needle and thread.
If you need to replace an entire screen, it isn't hard. The mesh is held in place by a strip of tubing that fits into a channel along the edge of the metal frame. Buy the mesh and tubing by the yard at a hardware store (bring measurements or the frame with you to the store, along with a sample of the tubing your window needs) and follow these steps:
Source: Marilyn Lewis of MSN Real Estate
Cleaning all the windows and window coverings in your home is a big, satisfying and several-hours-long project. Choose a sunny day and, if possible, get someone to work with you.
Remove curtains and blinds if you can. Clean windows and window trim, inside and out. Start by brushing (with a dry broom) or dusting the trim. If it's really dirty, wipe it down with a rag and soapy water. Outdoors, use a hose to rinse off the soap. To clean the glass, use a good-quality squeegee, the tool of professional window washers. Before purchasing a squeegee, check the width of your smallest windows. Assemble a pole (unscrew the handle from a broom) that fits your squeegee's handle, a microfiber cloth and a bucket. Use a few drops of liquid dish soap or a teaspoon of TSP in a two-gallon bucket of warm water. Many professionals like TSP, or trisodium phosphate, a powdered stain remover and degreaser found at hardware stores, for a streak-free finish. Caution using TSP: In a hot solution, it can remove or take the gloss off paints and can darken aluminum or wood. Apply the cleaning solution with a rag or mop. Immediately squeegee it off, wiping the blade between strokes to minimize dripping. Do one window at a time. Use the squeegee on the pole for hard-to-reach places. Consider engaging a professional to do second-story windows.
Clean and repair window screens
On a sunny day, take window screens out of storage and lay them on the grass, sidewalk or deck. Dust with a soft cloth or brush off dust with a clean paint brush. Dip a big (roughly the size of your hand), soft-bristle brush in warm, soapy water and gently scrub each side of the screen. Hose off each screen and put them in the sun to dry. Avoid tearing or pulling screens from their frames. You can mend small tears with a needle and thread.
If you need to replace an entire screen, it isn't hard. The mesh is held in place by a strip of tubing that fits into a channel along the edge of the metal frame. Buy the mesh and tubing by the yard at a hardware store (bring measurements or the frame with you to the store, along with a sample of the tubing your window needs) and follow these steps:
- Remove the old tubing (use a screwdriver to pry it out) and lift off the screen.
- Cut the replacement screen larger than needed, fit it tightly to the frame while tucking the tubing back into the channel with a screwdriver. If you've got many screens to replace, consider buying a special tool to push tubing into the channel.
Source: Marilyn Lewis of MSN Real Estate
Monday, May 20, 2013
More May Mainenance...
Put the furnace to bed for the summer
Check the furnace filter, holding it up to the light to see if it's dark and dirty and in need of a change. The instruction manual will tell you where to find these filters and how to remove and replace them. Vacuum the openings and grilles at heating and ventilation vents, registers and ducts.
Service the furnace and air conditioner
The transition from cool to warm weather is the sign that it's time to take care of the appliances that keep you comfortable through the year. Call a professional to perform annual service on a furnace, air conditioner or evaporative cooler. Act early to book an appointment so you can avoid the summer rush. Call the company that installed the appliance or search online for licensed heating, ventilation and air conditioning specialists.
Replace vacuum cleaner bags
Remove the vacuum cleaner bag outdoors so you don't release dust and allergens back into the house. Wear a bandana or dust mask to protect your lungs. While you have the vacuum cleaner open, dust it inside and wipe down the inside parts with a thin rag dipped in warm, soapy water and wrung out well. Keep water from the motor and electrical parts. Soak the vacuum tools in a bucket of soapy warm water, rinse and dry them. Let the machine air dry before installing a fresh bag and closing it up. Check the owner's manual to learn how often to wash or replace filters in some newer vacuum cleaners.
Vacuum refrigerator coils
Remove the front cover from the refrigerator and use the wand attachment on the vacuum cleaner to carefully suck out the dust and dried bits of macaroni and dog food that have worked their way under the fridge.
Source: Marilyn Lewis of MSN Real Estate
Check the furnace filter, holding it up to the light to see if it's dark and dirty and in need of a change. The instruction manual will tell you where to find these filters and how to remove and replace them. Vacuum the openings and grilles at heating and ventilation vents, registers and ducts.
Service the furnace and air conditioner
The transition from cool to warm weather is the sign that it's time to take care of the appliances that keep you comfortable through the year. Call a professional to perform annual service on a furnace, air conditioner or evaporative cooler. Act early to book an appointment so you can avoid the summer rush. Call the company that installed the appliance or search online for licensed heating, ventilation and air conditioning specialists.
Replace vacuum cleaner bags
Remove the vacuum cleaner bag outdoors so you don't release dust and allergens back into the house. Wear a bandana or dust mask to protect your lungs. While you have the vacuum cleaner open, dust it inside and wipe down the inside parts with a thin rag dipped in warm, soapy water and wrung out well. Keep water from the motor and electrical parts. Soak the vacuum tools in a bucket of soapy warm water, rinse and dry them. Let the machine air dry before installing a fresh bag and closing it up. Check the owner's manual to learn how often to wash or replace filters in some newer vacuum cleaners.
Vacuum refrigerator coils
Remove the front cover from the refrigerator and use the wand attachment on the vacuum cleaner to carefully suck out the dust and dried bits of macaroni and dog food that have worked their way under the fridge.
Source: Marilyn Lewis of MSN Real Estate
Sunday, May 19, 2013
May Home Maintenance
When the weather turns warm, follow the impulse to fling open the
windows and let in the fresh air and light: The sun's ultraviolet rays
are lethal to many harmful bacteria. May's the time to ready your home
for summer.
Baby your cooling system
Before firing up your air conditioner, change or clean the filter. You'll want to change it every couple of months while the system is in use. The owner's manual will explain how to change filters and clean coils and fins in the exterior evaporator unit. With the air conditioning turned off, check the evaporator unit for dirt, brushing and dusting it. Trim any surrounding shrubs. Remove the pan from the bottom of the unit, clean and replace it.
Source: Marilyn Lewis of MSN Real Estate
Baby your cooling system
Before firing up your air conditioner, change or clean the filter. You'll want to change it every couple of months while the system is in use. The owner's manual will explain how to change filters and clean coils and fins in the exterior evaporator unit. With the air conditioning turned off, check the evaporator unit for dirt, brushing and dusting it. Trim any surrounding shrubs. Remove the pan from the bottom of the unit, clean and replace it.
- Central air conditioning units have a pipe that drips evaporated moisture onto the ground. If this clogs, water can back up into the house. Each spring, clean the line by removing the cap at the access hole on top of the pipe. Pour a cup of bleach into it, letting the bleach drain to the ground. If a clog has formed farther up the pipe, attach the suction end of a wet-dry vacuum to the pipe's end, wrap duct tape around the joint to create a temporary seal and run the vacuum briefly to remove the clog.
- Window units: Stop the growth of algae and mold (and musty smells) by pouring two capfuls of bleach into the condensation pan (the drip pan located under the cooling coils). Do this monthly while you're using the air conditioner. Also, dust the unit regularly.
- Evaporative coolers: Open the unit and remove the drip pan. Examine it for leaks or rust. Replace cooler pads each spring.
Source: Marilyn Lewis of MSN Real Estate
Monday, April 29, 2013
Spring Home Maintenance Tips
After a long, dark winter, spring's bright sun and warm winds are,
well, a breath of fresh air. The only downside? All that sunshine
spotlights your leaf-filled gutters, cracked sidewalks and the dead
plants in last year's flower beds. Dwight Barnett, a certified master
inspector with the American Society of Home Inspectors, shared this
checklist to help you target the areas that need maintenance so you can
get your chores done quickly, leaving you time to go outside and play in
the sunshine.
- Check for loose or leaky gutters. Improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space. Make sure downspouts drain away from the foundation and are clear and free of debris.
- Low areas in the yard or next to the foundation should be filled with compacted soil. Spring rains can cause yard flooding, which can lead to foundation flooding and damage. Also, when water pools in these low areas in summer, it creates a breeding ground for insects.
- Use a screwdriver to probe the wood trim around windows, doors, railings and decks. Make repairs now before the spring rains do more damage to the exposed wood.
- From the ground, examine roof shingles to see if any were lost or damaged during winter. If your home has an older roof covering, you may want to start a budget for replacement. The summer sun can really damage roof shingles. Shingles that are cracked, buckled or loose or are missing granules need to be replaced. Flashing around plumbing vents, skylights and chimneys need to be checked and repaired by a qualified roofer.
- Examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of damage. Have the flue cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep.
- Inspect concrete slabs for signs of cracks or movement. All exterior slabs except pool decks should drain away from the home's foundation. Fill cracks with a concrete crack filler or silicone caulk. When weather permits, power-wash and then seal the concrete.
- Remove firewood stored near the home. Firewood should be stored at least 18 inches off the ground at least 2 feet from the structure.
- Check outside hose faucets for freeze damage. Turn the water on and place your thumb or finger over the opening. If you can stop the flow of water, it is likely the pipe inside the home is damaged and will need to be replaced. While you're at it, check the garden hose for dry rot.
- Have a qualified heating and cooling contractor clean and service the outside unit of the air conditioning system. Clean coils operate more efficiently, and an annual service call will keep the system working at peak performance levels. Change interior filters on a regular basis.
- Check your gas- and battery-powered lawn equipment to make sure it is ready for summer use. Clean equipment and sharp cutting blades will make yardwork easier.
Monday, April 22, 2013
Keep Your Family Safe From Home Fires
Although deaths and injuries from
residential fires have decreased in the past several years, deaths from
fires and burns are still the third leading cause of fatal home injuries
(CDC). Seventy percent of these deaths are from inhaling
smoke. Two-thirds of deaths from home fires occurred in homes with no
smoke alarms or no working smoke alarms.
Fires are more likely to happen in
certain areas or by certain equipment in your house. Be extra careful
while you're cooking, smoking, around candles, furnaces, electrical
cords and fireplaces, and with children, toddlers and babies nearby.
According to the U.S. Fire Administration, cooking equipment, most often a range or a stovetop, is the leading cause of reported U.S. home fires and home fire injuries. Fortunately, there are things you and your family can do to protect yourselves. |
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Wednesday, April 17, 2013
Smoke Detectors and Your Home
How to buy a smoke detector, with smoke alarm types and
features, the number needed for a home, combination detectors and fire
alarm manufacturers.
Every year in the United States, more than 3,500 people die in home fires and another 18,000 are injured. Additionally, house fires cost almost $8 billion in property damage annually. Many victims do not die of burns but rather smoke inhalation, because fires often occur at night when victims are asleep. Smoke detectors are the best way to prevent these catastrophic results. The risk of dying from a home not protected by a smoke detector is twice that of a protected home. Of course, it is essential that the detector is operational: Approximately 95% of U.S. homes have at least one smoke detector, yet 20 percent of fire fatalities occur in homes with broken or disabled detectors. A smoke detector stands guard around the clock, and when it first senses smoke, it sounds an alarm, often buying a family the precious time it takes to escape. The most common alarm is a beeping noise that is piercing and persistent enough to alert homeowners to danger.
Other types of alarms include a voice detector, which has verbal commands pre-recorded in addition to an alarm. Examples of the pre-recorded commands are ”Fire, get out!” or “Smoke alert!” or Low-battery alert.” One version of this type may even have a parent’s voice pre-recorded (studies indicate that children are more likely to respond quickly to a parent’s voice).
Strobe detectors are smoke alarms that are designed to meet the needs of the hearing-impaired. These smoke alarms use strobe lights that flash or vibrate to alert those who are unable to hear standard smoke alarms. There are also detectors that respond with tactile stimulation such as bed shaking.
Battery and Hardwired Smoke Detectors
Most smoke detectors are battery powered, but some, particularly those installed during house construction, are wired into a home’s electrical system. Most of the ones that run on line voltage (household current) have a battery backup in case a fire knocks out the house’s electrical power. Battery-powered detectors are easier to install. Smoke detector batteries insider both battery-operated and hard-wired smoke detectors last approximately 6 months. When they need replacing, the detector will chirp every minute or so to indicate that the batteries are expiring.
The main problem with battery-powered smoke detectors is that people don’t maintain them. All battery-operated detectors are supposed to signal a low battery, but you have to make sure they’re working; newer models won’t close if the battery is removed. New lithium battery models last up to 10 years; the entire unit is disposable.
Smoke Detector Types
There are many brands of smoke detector on the market, but they all fall under two basic types—ionization chamber detectors and photoelectric detectors. Both types have two basic parts: a sensor to sense the smoke and a very loud electronic horn to alert people.
Ionization detectors use a radioactive source that produces electrically charged molecules (ions). This sets up an electrical current within the detector chamber. When smoke enters the chamber, it attaches to the ions and reduces the flow of electrical current, which sets off the alarm. Ionization detectors are better at detecting the smaller amounts of smoke produced by fast, flaming fires.
Photoelectric detectors use an optical detector sensor (a photo beam) and go off when smoke from a smoldering fire is dense enough to deflect that beam of light.
Dual detectors Because homeowners cannot predict the type of fire that might start, a combination smoke detector—called a dual-sensor smoke alarm—is actually the wisest choice.
Smoke Detector Features
Depending upon quality of smoke detectors, some also offer:
• A remote-control mute button that can be linked to a television remote control to silence nuisance alarms.
• Safety lights to provide illumination during an alarm.
• Silence buttons that will quiet the alarm for a few minutes at a time. Detectors with this feature are commonly placed in kitchens.
• Transmission of a signal to a central monitoring station as part of a security alert system.
• Intercommunication of hardwired smoke detectors that guarantees if one alarm in the house goes off, they all go off. Even if the fire is detected in the basement, people upstairs will hear an alarm.
Addressable Smoke Detector Systems
Addressable smoke detection systems provide knowledge of the exact location and status of every device. The alarm decision is generally made by control equipment rather than an individual detection device.
Addressable system features include:
• The alarm can be investigated before a fire service is called.
• The system can tell you which device needs maintenance.
• Each detector is uniquely identified, and the exact location of each unit is displayed at the fire control panel.
• Any cut wires or short circuits do not generate nuisance alarms.
• Each sensor can be adjusted to its own unique environment.
• Nuisance alarms are less likely because the system uses multi-sensor detection
• Many incorporate strobe lights as a means of alerting the hearing impaired.
Combination Smoke-CO Detectors
Combination detectors are gaining in popularity because they combine smoke and carbon monoxide detection. They are available as CO and ionization alarms and CO and photoelectric alarms.
By purchasing these combo alarms, you would have fewer alarms to place in your home (except that many CO alarms mount in the typical wall outlet placed low on the wall while the optimum smoke alarm placement is on or near the ceiling).
Interconnecting CO detectors warn you of problems in remote areas of the house—especially important in multi-level homes. They can be linked through hard wires or wirelessly and set off all the alarms if any one goes off.
Source: www.hometips.com
Every year in the United States, more than 3,500 people die in home fires and another 18,000 are injured. Additionally, house fires cost almost $8 billion in property damage annually. Many victims do not die of burns but rather smoke inhalation, because fires often occur at night when victims are asleep. Smoke detectors are the best way to prevent these catastrophic results. The risk of dying from a home not protected by a smoke detector is twice that of a protected home. Of course, it is essential that the detector is operational: Approximately 95% of U.S. homes have at least one smoke detector, yet 20 percent of fire fatalities occur in homes with broken or disabled detectors. A smoke detector stands guard around the clock, and when it first senses smoke, it sounds an alarm, often buying a family the precious time it takes to escape. The most common alarm is a beeping noise that is piercing and persistent enough to alert homeowners to danger.
Other types of alarms include a voice detector, which has verbal commands pre-recorded in addition to an alarm. Examples of the pre-recorded commands are ”Fire, get out!” or “Smoke alert!” or Low-battery alert.” One version of this type may even have a parent’s voice pre-recorded (studies indicate that children are more likely to respond quickly to a parent’s voice).
Strobe detectors are smoke alarms that are designed to meet the needs of the hearing-impaired. These smoke alarms use strobe lights that flash or vibrate to alert those who are unable to hear standard smoke alarms. There are also detectors that respond with tactile stimulation such as bed shaking.
Battery and Hardwired Smoke Detectors
Most smoke detectors are battery powered, but some, particularly those installed during house construction, are wired into a home’s electrical system. Most of the ones that run on line voltage (household current) have a battery backup in case a fire knocks out the house’s electrical power. Battery-powered detectors are easier to install. Smoke detector batteries insider both battery-operated and hard-wired smoke detectors last approximately 6 months. When they need replacing, the detector will chirp every minute or so to indicate that the batteries are expiring.
The main problem with battery-powered smoke detectors is that people don’t maintain them. All battery-operated detectors are supposed to signal a low battery, but you have to make sure they’re working; newer models won’t close if the battery is removed. New lithium battery models last up to 10 years; the entire unit is disposable.
Smoke Detector Types
There are many brands of smoke detector on the market, but they all fall under two basic types—ionization chamber detectors and photoelectric detectors. Both types have two basic parts: a sensor to sense the smoke and a very loud electronic horn to alert people.
Ionization detectors use a radioactive source that produces electrically charged molecules (ions). This sets up an electrical current within the detector chamber. When smoke enters the chamber, it attaches to the ions and reduces the flow of electrical current, which sets off the alarm. Ionization detectors are better at detecting the smaller amounts of smoke produced by fast, flaming fires.
Photoelectric detectors use an optical detector sensor (a photo beam) and go off when smoke from a smoldering fire is dense enough to deflect that beam of light.
Dual detectors Because homeowners cannot predict the type of fire that might start, a combination smoke detector—called a dual-sensor smoke alarm—is actually the wisest choice.
Smoke Detector Features
Depending upon quality of smoke detectors, some also offer:
• A remote-control mute button that can be linked to a television remote control to silence nuisance alarms.
• Safety lights to provide illumination during an alarm.
• Silence buttons that will quiet the alarm for a few minutes at a time. Detectors with this feature are commonly placed in kitchens.
• Transmission of a signal to a central monitoring station as part of a security alert system.
• Intercommunication of hardwired smoke detectors that guarantees if one alarm in the house goes off, they all go off. Even if the fire is detected in the basement, people upstairs will hear an alarm.
Addressable Smoke Detector Systems
Addressable smoke detection systems provide knowledge of the exact location and status of every device. The alarm decision is generally made by control equipment rather than an individual detection device.
Addressable system features include:
• The alarm can be investigated before a fire service is called.
• The system can tell you which device needs maintenance.
• Each detector is uniquely identified, and the exact location of each unit is displayed at the fire control panel.
• Any cut wires or short circuits do not generate nuisance alarms.
• Each sensor can be adjusted to its own unique environment.
• Nuisance alarms are less likely because the system uses multi-sensor detection
• Many incorporate strobe lights as a means of alerting the hearing impaired.
Combination Smoke-CO Detectors
Combination detectors are gaining in popularity because they combine smoke and carbon monoxide detection. They are available as CO and ionization alarms and CO and photoelectric alarms.
By purchasing these combo alarms, you would have fewer alarms to place in your home (except that many CO alarms mount in the typical wall outlet placed low on the wall while the optimum smoke alarm placement is on or near the ceiling).
Interconnecting CO detectors warn you of problems in remote areas of the house—especially important in multi-level homes. They can be linked through hard wires or wirelessly and set off all the alarms if any one goes off.
Source: www.hometips.com
Wednesday, April 10, 2013
The Custom Home 1
A builder may pour the foundation and raise the roof, but only you can make your new house a home. A seasoned architect offers tips to help you avoid costly and heartbreaking mistakes.
Your new house is an exciting, and mind-boggling experience for you; it is routine for the builder ("been there- done that"). These attitudes often tend to clash. Building your new house should not (and cannot) be a passive exercise. A myriad of decisions have to be made, by you. Where you are unable, or unwilling to make decisions, you will force the builder to make them. To make sure your new home fulfills your own vision, follow these guidelines:
Understand Your Contract
You will party to a contract involving a massive amount of money when you sign on the dotted line for the construction of your new house. By so doing, you abdicate NONE of your basic legal rights; therefore, know them, and exercise them!
Start by reading the contract and understanding it. You are paying (or will pay over the next 25-30 years) for the knowledge of the builders -- their experience and ability. PLUS you are paying your builders a profit above their expenses. What do you expect in return? How do ensure that you get what you expect?
COMMUNICATE - WRITE IT DOWN - COMMUNICATE- WRITE IT DOWN - COMMUNICATE - WRITE IT DOWN. Anything you add to the house after the contract is signed, the builder will keep track of -- assiduously! Anything you delete or reduce, YOU keep track of -- assiduously!
Source: Jackie Craven, Architecture Guide, about.com
Your new house is an exciting, and mind-boggling experience for you; it is routine for the builder ("been there- done that"). These attitudes often tend to clash. Building your new house should not (and cannot) be a passive exercise. A myriad of decisions have to be made, by you. Where you are unable, or unwilling to make decisions, you will force the builder to make them. To make sure your new home fulfills your own vision, follow these guidelines:
Understand Your Contract
You will party to a contract involving a massive amount of money when you sign on the dotted line for the construction of your new house. By so doing, you abdicate NONE of your basic legal rights; therefore, know them, and exercise them!
Start by reading the contract and understanding it. You are paying (or will pay over the next 25-30 years) for the knowledge of the builders -- their experience and ability. PLUS you are paying your builders a profit above their expenses. What do you expect in return? How do ensure that you get what you expect?
COMMUNICATE - WRITE IT DOWN - COMMUNICATE- WRITE IT DOWN - COMMUNICATE - WRITE IT DOWN. Anything you add to the house after the contract is signed, the builder will keep track of -- assiduously! Anything you delete or reduce, YOU keep track of -- assiduously!
Source: Jackie Craven, Architecture Guide, about.com
Friday, March 29, 2013
Outdoor Spring Maintenance
Divert Water
Gutters do their job best when clean. Check yours for foliage build-up, particularly if trees hover over the roof. The rainy season is a prime time to ensure all drainage areas remain unblocked by leaves and/or debris. Trapped moisture can leave a house susceptible to moss and mildew and cause major damage to your roof and walls. While you’re at it, make sure the downspout is clean and pointing 2-2-1/2 feet away from foundation walls.
Retain the Roof
It’s easy to take for granted the one thing that shields you from the elements. But doing so could cost you unnecessary repair costs. Be diligent about roof maintenance. After the next rainy day, inspect your ceiling for wet spots. Ask a licensed professional to inspect your roof for wear and tear. "If the shingles are curling, buckling or crackling, it’s time to replace the roof," according to Dan Cornwell, president of CC&L Roofing in Portland, Ore.
Check Your Paint Job
Look for chipped, cracked paint along the exterior of your home. "The worse thing you can do is leave wood exposed, because that’s when it will begin to rot," says Brian Gummel, president of The Painting Company in Edgewater, Md. Scrape off any failing paint. Sand it down so there are no rough edges, prime the bare wood surface and paint it with a high quality paint product. Don’t wait until siding accumulates too much dirt. Brighten up the house with a good power washing.
Cut Shrubs and Trees
Trim overgrown trees and hedges away from your home to discourage the growth of mildew and moisture. Branches should be at least 7 feet away from the exterior of your house to prolong the life of your siding and roof. Get rid of out-of-control vines, as they can help crack siding and allow moisture and pests entry into your home.
Love Your Lawn
Rake up the excess leaves you didn’t get around to last fall. Too many can suffocate your grass and stop it from growing. "Pull up weeds, and remove foilage from the lawn, shrubs and any plants," says Neal Julien, landscaping expert with Neal Works Landscaping in Capitol Heights, Md. Pull up dead flowers and replace them with a low-maintenance variety such as pansies, begonias or mums.
Source: HGTV.com
Gutters do their job best when clean. Check yours for foliage build-up, particularly if trees hover over the roof. The rainy season is a prime time to ensure all drainage areas remain unblocked by leaves and/or debris. Trapped moisture can leave a house susceptible to moss and mildew and cause major damage to your roof and walls. While you’re at it, make sure the downspout is clean and pointing 2-2-1/2 feet away from foundation walls.
Retain the Roof
It’s easy to take for granted the one thing that shields you from the elements. But doing so could cost you unnecessary repair costs. Be diligent about roof maintenance. After the next rainy day, inspect your ceiling for wet spots. Ask a licensed professional to inspect your roof for wear and tear. "If the shingles are curling, buckling or crackling, it’s time to replace the roof," according to Dan Cornwell, president of CC&L Roofing in Portland, Ore.
Check Your Paint Job
Look for chipped, cracked paint along the exterior of your home. "The worse thing you can do is leave wood exposed, because that’s when it will begin to rot," says Brian Gummel, president of The Painting Company in Edgewater, Md. Scrape off any failing paint. Sand it down so there are no rough edges, prime the bare wood surface and paint it with a high quality paint product. Don’t wait until siding accumulates too much dirt. Brighten up the house with a good power washing.
Cut Shrubs and Trees
Trim overgrown trees and hedges away from your home to discourage the growth of mildew and moisture. Branches should be at least 7 feet away from the exterior of your house to prolong the life of your siding and roof. Get rid of out-of-control vines, as they can help crack siding and allow moisture and pests entry into your home.
Love Your Lawn
Rake up the excess leaves you didn’t get around to last fall. Too many can suffocate your grass and stop it from growing. "Pull up weeds, and remove foilage from the lawn, shrubs and any plants," says Neal Julien, landscaping expert with Neal Works Landscaping in Capitol Heights, Md. Pull up dead flowers and replace them with a low-maintenance variety such as pansies, begonias or mums.
Source: HGTV.com
Saturday, March 23, 2013
Custom Home Building
Building a new home begins long before the foundation is poured. To avoid costly mistakes during the construction process, start with these five important steps. As you move from dream house to real house, be sure to ask questions and share your progress.
1. Plan Your Budget
Begin now to think about how much you can afford to spend and how much building your new home is likely to cost. Chances are you will need a construction loan and a mortgage. It's not too early to find out what size loan you qualify for. Also, knowing the approximate costs will help you modify your building plans to meet your budget.
2. Choose Your Lot
Whether you are building your home in a suburban development or a site with sweeping ocean views, you will almost always need to choose the land before you select floor plans or other details. You (and any pros you hire) will need to investigate factors such as soil condition, drainage, zoning and building codes in the region.
3. Line Up Your Team
Unless you are a homesteader, you'll need a team of experts to design and construct your house. Key players will include a builder, an excavator, a surveyor and a home designer or an architect. Many homeowners begin by selecting the builder or contractor. That pro then selects other members of the team. However, you may also opt to hire an architect or designer first.
4. Pick a Plan
Many new homes are built using stock plans from a catalog. The builder or a home designer may make minor modifications in room size, window style or other details. A custom-designed home, on the other hand, is created specifically for the family which will live there. In most cases, custom-designed homes require the services of a licensed architect. Whether you opt for a stock or a custom design, you will be wise to choose a plan that will meet your needs for many years to come.
5. Negotiate a Contract
Be sure to get a written contract which has been signed and dated by both the builder or contractor and the architect or designer. A contract for new home construction will describe the project in detail and include a listing of all the parts to be included in the house. Remember to amend the contract if you or your team make any changes to the project later on.
Source: Jackie Craven, architecture.about.com
1. Plan Your Budget
Begin now to think about how much you can afford to spend and how much building your new home is likely to cost. Chances are you will need a construction loan and a mortgage. It's not too early to find out what size loan you qualify for. Also, knowing the approximate costs will help you modify your building plans to meet your budget.
2. Choose Your Lot
Whether you are building your home in a suburban development or a site with sweeping ocean views, you will almost always need to choose the land before you select floor plans or other details. You (and any pros you hire) will need to investigate factors such as soil condition, drainage, zoning and building codes in the region.
3. Line Up Your Team
Unless you are a homesteader, you'll need a team of experts to design and construct your house. Key players will include a builder, an excavator, a surveyor and a home designer or an architect. Many homeowners begin by selecting the builder or contractor. That pro then selects other members of the team. However, you may also opt to hire an architect or designer first.
4. Pick a Plan
Many new homes are built using stock plans from a catalog. The builder or a home designer may make minor modifications in room size, window style or other details. A custom-designed home, on the other hand, is created specifically for the family which will live there. In most cases, custom-designed homes require the services of a licensed architect. Whether you opt for a stock or a custom design, you will be wise to choose a plan that will meet your needs for many years to come.
5. Negotiate a Contract
Be sure to get a written contract which has been signed and dated by both the builder or contractor and the architect or designer. A contract for new home construction will describe the project in detail and include a listing of all the parts to be included in the house. Remember to amend the contract if you or your team make any changes to the project later on.
Source: Jackie Craven, architecture.about.com
Tuesday, March 19, 2013
10 Home-Maintenance Tips for Spring
After a long, dark winter, spring's bright sun and warm winds are,
well, a breath of fresh air. The only downside? All that sunshine
spotlights your leaf-filled gutters, cracked sidewalks and the dead
plants in last year's flower beds. Dwight Barnett, a certified master
inspector with the American Society of Home Inspectors, shared this
checklist to help you target the areas that need maintenance so you can
get your chores done quickly, leaving you time to go outside and play in
the sunshine.
- Check for loose or leaky gutters. Improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space. Make sure downspouts drain away from the foundation and are clear and free of debris.
- Low areas in the yard or next to the foundation should be filled with compacted soil. Spring rains can cause yard flooding, which can lead to foundation flooding and damage. Also, when water pools in these low areas in summer, it creates a breeding ground for insects.
- Use a screwdriver to probe the wood trim around windows, doors, railings and decks. Make repairs now before the spring rains do more damage to the exposed wood.
- From the ground, examine roof shingles to see if any were lost or damaged during winter. If your home has an older roof covering, you may want to start a budget for replacement. The summer sun can really damage roof shingles. Shingles that are cracked, buckled or loose or are missing granules need to be replaced. Flashing around plumbing vents, skylights and chimneys need to be checked and repaired by a qualified roofer.
- Examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of damage. Have the flue cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep.
- Inspect concrete slabs for signs of cracks or movement. All exterior slabs except pool decks should drain away from the home's foundation. Fill cracks with a concrete crack filler or silicone caulk. When weather permits, power-wash and then seal the concrete.
- Remove firewood stored near the home. Firewood should be stored at least 18 inches off the ground at least 2 feet from the structure.
- Check outside hose faucets for freeze damage. Turn the water on and place your thumb or finger over the opening. If you can stop the flow of water, it is likely the pipe inside the home is damaged and will need to be replaced. While you're at it, check the garden hose for dry rot.
- Have a qualified heating and cooling contractor clean and service the outside unit of the air conditioning system. Clean coils operate more efficiently, and an annual service call will keep the system working at peak performance levels. Change interior filters on a regular basis.
- Check your gas- and battery-powered lawn equipment to make sure it is ready for summer use. Clean equipment and sharp cutting blades will make yardwork easier.
Thursday, March 7, 2013
Negotiating a Fair Contract
A contract spells out all the terms of the work, helping you and the contractor minimize misunderstandings and wasted effort caused by poor instructions. It should include the contractor's name and address, license number, a timetable for starting and finishing the job, a payment schedule, names of subcontractors, and the scope of work to be done.
Other basic items include a specification of materials and equipment needed, demolition and clean-up provisions, approximate start and finish dates, terms of the agreement, and room for signatures and the date. Watch out for binding arbitration provisions that limit your right to sue in the event of a dispute.
An excellent addendum to a contract is the contractor's statement of what isn't included. This will include the assumptions the contractor has made about your job, such as that the existing wiring and plumbing lines are adequate, that the homeowner will pay for all trash removal, that the subflooring is sound, that the existing baseboards and window trim will be usable, and so on.
Do your homework and specify the materials and brand names of all the products, appliances, and fixtures to be used. The contract should also give the contractor the burden of obtaining all building permits. Most municipalities have a building code; the person who obtains the permit is usually liable if the work doesn't come up to code.
It's common to pay for a project in stages over the course of the work, especially as key materials and supplies are delivered. Try to limit the down payment to 10 percent or less. Contractors who ask for a substantial amount up front may use your money to hire help to finish their previous job, leaving you to fume at delays. In some states, it's illegal to require large deposits. Some projects, however, require deposits on components that have to be made to order—kitchen cabinets, for instance. In such a case, a higher down payment may be required and justified.
Your contractor should agree to resolve problems that arise during the course of work rather than afterward. They might readily fix sloppy plastering or a leaky roof as soon as it's pointed out but be less willing to fix it later on. That's a good reason to hold back part of the final payment until after a job is completed. You can negotiate such terms and include them in the contract. Withholding the last 5 to 10 percent of the money for 30 days isn't an unreasonable stipulation.
Never make the final payment until you have obtained signed mechanic's-lien waivers or releases from all subcontractors and suppliers. These are basically receipts acknowledging payment for goods and services; they free you from third-party claims on your property in the event that you pay the contractor but he or she doesn't pay subcontractors or suppliers.
Source: Consumer Reports
Wednesday, March 6, 2013
Evaluating Bids
Industry
groups recommend that you get a written estimate from at least three
contractors. An estimate should detail the work
to be done, the materials needed, the labor
required, and the length of time the job will take. Obtaining multiple
estimates
is a good idea. An estimate can evolve into a
bid—a more detailed figure based on plans with actual dimensions.
Seeking more
than one bid will increase your odds of
paying less. Once agreed to and signed by you and the contractor, a bid
becomes a
contract.
The cheapest bid isn't always the best. Homeowners who accept a rock-bottom bid may wind up less satisfied overall than those willing to pay more. One bidder may be using smaller-diameter copper tubing or cheaper tile. He or she may also be bidding on exactly what you say you want, without making it clear that your pre-World War II house may also need new wiring and water lines, which will cost extra.
Make sure all bidders are bidding on the same specifications and job description. Take the time to choose materials and fixtures yourself, since you may not always like or agree with the contractor's selections. The term "comparing apples to oranges" may well have been invented during the bidding process.
Know your plans. It can be costly to change job specifications after the work has begun. Revising your plans can add substantially to cost overruns, with changes resulting in lengthy delays. A less-than-straightforward low bidder is counting on these changes to make the job profitable.
Source: Consumer Reports
The cheapest bid isn't always the best. Homeowners who accept a rock-bottom bid may wind up less satisfied overall than those willing to pay more. One bidder may be using smaller-diameter copper tubing or cheaper tile. He or she may also be bidding on exactly what you say you want, without making it clear that your pre-World War II house may also need new wiring and water lines, which will cost extra.
Make sure all bidders are bidding on the same specifications and job description. Take the time to choose materials and fixtures yourself, since you may not always like or agree with the contractor's selections. The term "comparing apples to oranges" may well have been invented during the bidding process.
Know your plans. It can be costly to change job specifications after the work has begun. Revising your plans can add substantially to cost overruns, with changes resulting in lengthy delays. A less-than-straightforward low bidder is counting on these changes to make the job profitable.
Source: Consumer Reports
Tuesday, March 5, 2013
Do You Need a General Contractor?
Typically, if your job requires more than three subcontractors, a general contractor may be a good idea. A general contractor can free you from such burdens as maintaining a work schedule, obtaining necessary permits, and resolving disputes with suppliers. He or she will have more leverage than you do with subcontractors, since you're only a one-time job. In a tight labor market, that could be important. A general contractor may get discounts at lumberyards and supply houses. Whether or not these savings are passed on to you or retained as part of the contractor's fee is something that should be covered in the contract.
Source: Consumer Reports
Monday, March 4, 2013
Choosing a Contractor
Don't
count on newspaper advertisements or the phone book. The best
contractors don't have to advertise. They get work through
satisfied customers' referrals. Consult
friends and neighbors who have had work done. Another source is the
National Association
of Home Builders (www.nahb.org).
After a little pointing and clicking, you can bring up contact
information for local builders' associations in your region.
These in turn, usually have member
directories to help you find a contractor. Kitchen-and-bath shops or
other suppliers may
try to steer you to contractors they use
regularly, but don't feel you must use one of them.
Call
the Better Business Bureau or a local consumer-affairs agency for
complaint histories of the contractors you're considering.
One or two gripes shouldn't necessarily
induce you to look elsewhere. But be wary of a contractor with more
problems than
that. You'll also want to check with the
appropriate agency to see if the contractor is properly licensed and
insured. Some
states or counties as well as many large
cities or townships license contractors; other jurisdictions require
them to be registered.
As a rule, licensing entails passing a test
to measure competency, while registering involves only payment of a fee.
If a
problem arises, a government agency may be
able to pursue a licensed or registered contractor on your behalf.
Licensing won't guarantee success, but it indicates a degree of professionalism and suggests that the contractor is committed to his or her job. The same holds true for membership in or certification by an industry group such as the National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI), the National Kitchen & Bath Association, or the NAHB Remodeling Council—usually a sign of someone who is in business for the long run and not the quick buck. NARI will even try to resolve disputes between member contractors and homeowners, if requested.
When checking references, ask whether the contractor is insured and, if applicable, licensed to do the work. If, for example, someone gets hurt or your neighbor's property is damaged by an unlicensed or uninsured contractor, you could wind up paying. It's wise to know what your homeowners' insurance covers before work starts.
No matter how you find potential contractors, be sure to ask for a list of previous customers; then call them or, better yet, visit their homes to look at the work. Ask some penetrating questions such as these:
Source: Consumer Reports
Licensing won't guarantee success, but it indicates a degree of professionalism and suggests that the contractor is committed to his or her job. The same holds true for membership in or certification by an industry group such as the National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI), the National Kitchen & Bath Association, or the NAHB Remodeling Council—usually a sign of someone who is in business for the long run and not the quick buck. NARI will even try to resolve disputes between member contractors and homeowners, if requested.
When checking references, ask whether the contractor is insured and, if applicable, licensed to do the work. If, for example, someone gets hurt or your neighbor's property is damaged by an unlicensed or uninsured contractor, you could wind up paying. It's wise to know what your homeowners' insurance covers before work starts.
No matter how you find potential contractors, be sure to ask for a list of previous customers; then call them or, better yet, visit their homes to look at the work. Ask some penetrating questions such as these:
- Would you hire this contractor again?
- Were you satisfied with the quality of the work?
- How did the contractor handle cleanup each day?
- Was the contractor easy to talk to?
- How did the contractor handle differences and work changes?
- Was the job completed on time and at the bid? If not, why not?
Source: Consumer Reports
Monday, February 18, 2013
10 must-do repairs before selling - MSN Real Estate
When you put a home up for sale these days, you're facing stiff competition. In most parts of the country, buyers are faced with huge numbers of homes for sale. Before asking strangers to trade hundreds of thousands of their hard-earned dollars for your little palace, make all the little repairs you've always meant to do but never had the time for.
These 10 basic repairs will help prepare your house for a buyer's white-glove inspection:
1. Repair sagging screen doors and other entry red flags.
The entrance to your home is the key to first impressions. Carolyn Brake, a home-staging expert in Aurora, Colo., near Denver, prepares about 10 to 12 homes a week for market and she stresses the importance of creating a great impression right off the bat. "We're not so much selling the house as we're selling the experience of living in this house," Brake says. Buyers will be alert to signs of neglect or deferred maintenance, since they want to avoid expensive hidden problems down the road.
Make sure everything at the entrance is in working order. If the screen door is sagging, you'll probably have to install a new one, as aging aluminum parts often become too bent or broken to repair, says Charlie Hudson, a remodeling professional and owner of Hudson Remodeling, in Lynden, Wash. But first, try replacing any missing or corroded hinge screws and tightening the rest.
Patrol the perimeter of your home, inspecting it with the critical eye of a stranger, advises Katherine Carroll, agent with Century 21 Mountain Lifestyles in Weaverville, N.C. Clear dead plants from flower beds, clip dead blossoms and stems, rake and haul the yard waste far away.
What's your home worth?
A fresh coast of paint on the front door goes miles toward establishing a great first impression. What color? Drive around for some inspiration and to see what colors prevail in your community. In some towns, a bright red door, or a deep plum, looks great. In others, it'll seem over the top. Forest green, navy blue and black can be great door colors. The front door need not match the exterior colors of your house and trim, only look good alongside them.
2. Spiff up the roof.
Missing shingles and hanging gutters broadcast a loud, scary signal to potential buyers. "You want the house to look as presentable and nonproblematic as possible," says Cathy Cowan, an agent with Windermere Real Estate Co. in Seattle. "There's a great deal of fear when people go out to look at property. You want them to be able to focus on 'Where does my bed go?' and 'Can we live here?' rather than, 'Oh my God, there's a problem with the roof.'"
Get a roofer to replace any missing or broken shingles or roofing tiles. Moss growing on the roof signals neglect, so it's important to get it cleaned off. Ask a roofing expert to remove moss or to recommend someone who can. Roofing professionals may suggest treating the surface of your roof with a chemical to kill moss or they may recommend installing zinc strips on the roof ridge. Water running over the zinc washes minute amounts of zinc carbonate over the roof, killing algae and moss, according to Z-Stop, which manufactures the strips. When hiring someone to work on your roof, it's crucial to check their recommendations. Amateurs can damage your roof with the careless use of a high-pressure power washer.
3. Clear and caulk gutters.
On a dry day, climb up on a ladder and clear all the debris out of the gutters so water can flow freely. While you're up there, recaulk the gutter end caps, advises Hudson. Seamless gutters are finished at the ends with a cap that's crimped and caulked. Aging caulk allows leaks to drain water down your home's siding.
Get started by drying the clean gutter; the drier the aluminum, the better caulk will bond to its surface, says Hudson. He recommends using flexible butyl caulk made for outdoor conditions. Its color doesn't matter, since you're caulking inside the gutter. Squeeze out a generous amount and use your finger to smear the stuff around inside the gutter cap seams. Don't worry about appearances, since no one will see your work.
4. Patch nail holes and repaint.
Moving inside the house, you'll want to patch up nail holes in the walls. Ask at a hardware store for lightweight putty. Apply it with a putty knife and fill in each hole, scraping the excess off the wall. Following directions on the package, wait for it to dry. Then sand the putty until it's smooth and flush with the wall. Paint the repaired spots with primer. Call a handyman for anything bigger than a nail hole, as it's not easy to blend bigger repairs into the wall and obvious patches telegraph the message, "I'm hiding something," says Hudson. Repaint the entire wall -- you're unlikely to be able to hide a touched-up patch, otherwise -- from one corner to the next.
5. Divorce your smoker and ship kitty to Siberia.
All right, just kidding. Sort of. The thing is, smells are a serious deal killer. When strangers enter a home, the first thing they notice is the smell. Don't even try hiding behind scented candles, potpourri and plug-in room fragrances. Buyers, ever suspicious to problems, catch a whiff of those and conclude that you're hiding something.
In the kitchen and bathrooms, deep clean with bleach, then regrout tiles and recaulk cracks between sinks, tubs, toilets, counters and floors to seal out the moisture that encourages the growth of smelly mold, mildew and bacteria.
If you've had smokers in the house, you've got extra work to do. To rid walls of smoke and nicotine film, some experts suggest washing the walls with cleaners using an alkaline builder, such as ammonia, and a glycol solvent (found at paint stores). Brake recommends painting an undercoat of Kilz primer onto clean, dry walls to seal in nicotine smells. Finish the job with a fresh coat of paint and change the furnace filter to further freshen the air in the house.
Then, "send smokers down the street," says Brake. She's not kidding: Ban smoking, even in the garden, because the smell clings to porches, decks and clothing. Gardens lose their appeal when littered with cigarette butts. If possible, board your cat off-premises while you're showing your home; at minimum, clean the litter box daily.
6. Replace damaged vinyl flooring.
Inspect the vinyl flooring in your bathrooms. If it has discolored spots or is loose, moisture may be damaging the floor. You'll probably want a professional to lay the actual flooring, which could cost $400 or more. But you can save as much as half of the cost by preparing the floor yourself.
Remove the baseboards by pulling them away from the walls with a small pry bar. Next, pull up the flooring using a larger pry bar -- it will be glued and nailed or stapled. Also remove the next layer, called the underlayment, made of particleboard or layered plywood.
While your new floor is being installed, you can sand and repaint the baseboards so the whole job will look terrific when it's finished. Another good choice for flooring material is linoleum, a green product made from linseed oil, pine resin, sawdust and other natural binders. It can add 30% or 40% to the cost of a $400 job.
7. Reseal the toilet.
Not all flooring installers will remove and reinstall the toilet, something that must be done to replace the floor. Pulling the toilet yourself can save you money. With plumbers' fees running about $85 an hour (with a minimum hour and a half charge for a house call), you could save yourself $200 or more (for two trips) by pulling the toilet yourself.
Even if you aren't replacing flooring, the seals may need replacing. How to tell? If the toilet rocks when someone sits down, or if the floor at the base is moist or discolored, the seal could be broken. Corroded nuts that hold the toilet to the floor are another sign that the toilet needs to be reinstalled. Before you begin, shut off the water supply at the faucet behind the toilet. Flush the toilet, holding down the handle to drain as much water as possible. Use a wrench to unscrew the bolts holding the toilet to the floor.
Don't move the toilet alone. Get a friend to help, because toilets are heavy and cumbersome, and the tanks are easily cracked. Prepare a bed of old cushions or towels in the bathtub and set the toilet there gently so any drips drain into the tub. At a hardware store, find two wax toilet seals (also called gaskets, about $3 apiece). One seal is conformed to fit into the sewer pipe; the second is a plain wax circle that you'll stack directly on top of the first. (Also at the store, purchase two new bolts -- about $1.50 each.) Back home, remove the old gaskets. Fit the new shaped gasket into the mouth of the sewer pipe first; put the second seal directly over it so the toilet fits into the space with no gaps. Lower the toilet over the seals. Screw in the new bolts, tighten them, reconnect the water supply and caulk the base of the toilet.
8. Stop faucet drips.
A dripping faucet calls attention to itself, and it's not hard to fix. Shut off the water supply to the faucets by turning the valves under the sink to the right. Then, test the faucet to make sure you've shut the water off completely. While you're looking under the sink, check for moisture on the wall around the valves and on the floor of the sink cabinet. Also check the supply lines leading to the dishwasher and disposal. If those areas are wet, get a plumber.
If you've got a newer, rotating, single-arm faucet (through which both hot and cold water run), note the brand and purchase a faucet rebuild kit (roughly $50) at the hardware store. Inside the faucet arm is a metal ball on a stem that lets the handle swivel while allowing water to flow in any direction. The kit contains the six to 12 parts most likely to fail, including that metal ball, O rings, springs and gaskets. The idea is to replace them all rather than trying to diagnose the exact source of the problem. Dismantle the faucet, laying the parts out in order on a paper towel. Snap a photo or draw a sketch to help you with reassembly. Replace the old parts, put the faucet back together and turn the water back on.
For older faucets with independent hot and cold water faucets, shut off the water under the sink as before then dismantle each of the sink's faucets separately. Remove the washers (rings made of rubber, plastic or brass), put them in a plastic sandwich bag and bring them to the hardware store to find replacements. Reassemble the faucets and turn the water back on.
If this seems like more trouble than you're willing to tackle, call a plumber. With no complications, a plumber can install the new parts in an hour, though most will bill you for an hour and a half minimum.
9. Renew dinged baseboards.
Beat-up baseboards detract greatly from the appearance of your home, and they're easy to spiff up. "All those little things tend to stand out," says Carroll. First, clean them to remove scrapes and smudges left by clawing pets and toddlers on wheels. Brake says a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponge works great on painted surfaces. Fill in dents with spackle, sand the baseboards smooth and repaint them. If you've lost the name of the original paint color, chip off a coin-sized bit, slip it into an envelope and bring it to the paint store where you can have the color computer matched.
Use primer before painting. Don't just retouch small areas; paint the entire piece of baseboard, from one end to the other. Choose a washable eggshell finish. White is a great choice for making baseboards and trim look crisp and clean.
10. Repair cabinet scratches.
You can quickly improve the look of unpainted woodwork and worn cabinets with an application of products that even out the surface color. Brake covers scratches on woodwork and cabinets with Old English Scratch Cover or a Tibet Almond Stick, a tight roll of cotton saturated in chemicals that the manufacturer, Zenith Chemical Works, says is a 100-year-old family formula. (You can find these at hardware and home-improvement stores.)
The almond stick goes on clear but covers scratches. "It's amazing," Brake says. Zenith owner Kim MacInnes says the almond stick works best with shallow surface scratches on dark finishes. It doesn't work in every case, he says, and even a good result may fade with time and need to be reapplied periodically.
Old English makes separate formulations for light or dark wood. These are oily stains, so use them carefully. Try out any products first in a corner where results will not be noticed. Do not use the dark stain on light wood. Finally, polish wood cabinets to a glow with lemon oil.
10 must-do repairs before selling - MSN Real Estate
These 10 basic repairs will help prepare your house for a buyer's white-glove inspection:
1. Repair sagging screen doors and other entry red flags.
The entrance to your home is the key to first impressions. Carolyn Brake, a home-staging expert in Aurora, Colo., near Denver, prepares about 10 to 12 homes a week for market and she stresses the importance of creating a great impression right off the bat. "We're not so much selling the house as we're selling the experience of living in this house," Brake says. Buyers will be alert to signs of neglect or deferred maintenance, since they want to avoid expensive hidden problems down the road.
Make sure everything at the entrance is in working order. If the screen door is sagging, you'll probably have to install a new one, as aging aluminum parts often become too bent or broken to repair, says Charlie Hudson, a remodeling professional and owner of Hudson Remodeling, in Lynden, Wash. But first, try replacing any missing or corroded hinge screws and tightening the rest.
Patrol the perimeter of your home, inspecting it with the critical eye of a stranger, advises Katherine Carroll, agent with Century 21 Mountain Lifestyles in Weaverville, N.C. Clear dead plants from flower beds, clip dead blossoms and stems, rake and haul the yard waste far away.
What's your home worth?
A fresh coast of paint on the front door goes miles toward establishing a great first impression. What color? Drive around for some inspiration and to see what colors prevail in your community. In some towns, a bright red door, or a deep plum, looks great. In others, it'll seem over the top. Forest green, navy blue and black can be great door colors. The front door need not match the exterior colors of your house and trim, only look good alongside them.
2. Spiff up the roof.
Missing shingles and hanging gutters broadcast a loud, scary signal to potential buyers. "You want the house to look as presentable and nonproblematic as possible," says Cathy Cowan, an agent with Windermere Real Estate Co. in Seattle. "There's a great deal of fear when people go out to look at property. You want them to be able to focus on 'Where does my bed go?' and 'Can we live here?' rather than, 'Oh my God, there's a problem with the roof.'"
Get a roofer to replace any missing or broken shingles or roofing tiles. Moss growing on the roof signals neglect, so it's important to get it cleaned off. Ask a roofing expert to remove moss or to recommend someone who can. Roofing professionals may suggest treating the surface of your roof with a chemical to kill moss or they may recommend installing zinc strips on the roof ridge. Water running over the zinc washes minute amounts of zinc carbonate over the roof, killing algae and moss, according to Z-Stop, which manufactures the strips. When hiring someone to work on your roof, it's crucial to check their recommendations. Amateurs can damage your roof with the careless use of a high-pressure power washer.
3. Clear and caulk gutters.
On a dry day, climb up on a ladder and clear all the debris out of the gutters so water can flow freely. While you're up there, recaulk the gutter end caps, advises Hudson. Seamless gutters are finished at the ends with a cap that's crimped and caulked. Aging caulk allows leaks to drain water down your home's siding.
Get started by drying the clean gutter; the drier the aluminum, the better caulk will bond to its surface, says Hudson. He recommends using flexible butyl caulk made for outdoor conditions. Its color doesn't matter, since you're caulking inside the gutter. Squeeze out a generous amount and use your finger to smear the stuff around inside the gutter cap seams. Don't worry about appearances, since no one will see your work.
4. Patch nail holes and repaint.
Moving inside the house, you'll want to patch up nail holes in the walls. Ask at a hardware store for lightweight putty. Apply it with a putty knife and fill in each hole, scraping the excess off the wall. Following directions on the package, wait for it to dry. Then sand the putty until it's smooth and flush with the wall. Paint the repaired spots with primer. Call a handyman for anything bigger than a nail hole, as it's not easy to blend bigger repairs into the wall and obvious patches telegraph the message, "I'm hiding something," says Hudson. Repaint the entire wall -- you're unlikely to be able to hide a touched-up patch, otherwise -- from one corner to the next.
5. Divorce your smoker and ship kitty to Siberia.
All right, just kidding. Sort of. The thing is, smells are a serious deal killer. When strangers enter a home, the first thing they notice is the smell. Don't even try hiding behind scented candles, potpourri and plug-in room fragrances. Buyers, ever suspicious to problems, catch a whiff of those and conclude that you're hiding something.
In the kitchen and bathrooms, deep clean with bleach, then regrout tiles and recaulk cracks between sinks, tubs, toilets, counters and floors to seal out the moisture that encourages the growth of smelly mold, mildew and bacteria.
If you've had smokers in the house, you've got extra work to do. To rid walls of smoke and nicotine film, some experts suggest washing the walls with cleaners using an alkaline builder, such as ammonia, and a glycol solvent (found at paint stores). Brake recommends painting an undercoat of Kilz primer onto clean, dry walls to seal in nicotine smells. Finish the job with a fresh coat of paint and change the furnace filter to further freshen the air in the house.
Then, "send smokers down the street," says Brake. She's not kidding: Ban smoking, even in the garden, because the smell clings to porches, decks and clothing. Gardens lose their appeal when littered with cigarette butts. If possible, board your cat off-premises while you're showing your home; at minimum, clean the litter box daily.
6. Replace damaged vinyl flooring.
Inspect the vinyl flooring in your bathrooms. If it has discolored spots or is loose, moisture may be damaging the floor. You'll probably want a professional to lay the actual flooring, which could cost $400 or more. But you can save as much as half of the cost by preparing the floor yourself.
Remove the baseboards by pulling them away from the walls with a small pry bar. Next, pull up the flooring using a larger pry bar -- it will be glued and nailed or stapled. Also remove the next layer, called the underlayment, made of particleboard or layered plywood.
While your new floor is being installed, you can sand and repaint the baseboards so the whole job will look terrific when it's finished. Another good choice for flooring material is linoleum, a green product made from linseed oil, pine resin, sawdust and other natural binders. It can add 30% or 40% to the cost of a $400 job.
7. Reseal the toilet.
Not all flooring installers will remove and reinstall the toilet, something that must be done to replace the floor. Pulling the toilet yourself can save you money. With plumbers' fees running about $85 an hour (with a minimum hour and a half charge for a house call), you could save yourself $200 or more (for two trips) by pulling the toilet yourself.
Even if you aren't replacing flooring, the seals may need replacing. How to tell? If the toilet rocks when someone sits down, or if the floor at the base is moist or discolored, the seal could be broken. Corroded nuts that hold the toilet to the floor are another sign that the toilet needs to be reinstalled. Before you begin, shut off the water supply at the faucet behind the toilet. Flush the toilet, holding down the handle to drain as much water as possible. Use a wrench to unscrew the bolts holding the toilet to the floor.
Don't move the toilet alone. Get a friend to help, because toilets are heavy and cumbersome, and the tanks are easily cracked. Prepare a bed of old cushions or towels in the bathtub and set the toilet there gently so any drips drain into the tub. At a hardware store, find two wax toilet seals (also called gaskets, about $3 apiece). One seal is conformed to fit into the sewer pipe; the second is a plain wax circle that you'll stack directly on top of the first. (Also at the store, purchase two new bolts -- about $1.50 each.) Back home, remove the old gaskets. Fit the new shaped gasket into the mouth of the sewer pipe first; put the second seal directly over it so the toilet fits into the space with no gaps. Lower the toilet over the seals. Screw in the new bolts, tighten them, reconnect the water supply and caulk the base of the toilet.
8. Stop faucet drips.
A dripping faucet calls attention to itself, and it's not hard to fix. Shut off the water supply to the faucets by turning the valves under the sink to the right. Then, test the faucet to make sure you've shut the water off completely. While you're looking under the sink, check for moisture on the wall around the valves and on the floor of the sink cabinet. Also check the supply lines leading to the dishwasher and disposal. If those areas are wet, get a plumber.
If you've got a newer, rotating, single-arm faucet (through which both hot and cold water run), note the brand and purchase a faucet rebuild kit (roughly $50) at the hardware store. Inside the faucet arm is a metal ball on a stem that lets the handle swivel while allowing water to flow in any direction. The kit contains the six to 12 parts most likely to fail, including that metal ball, O rings, springs and gaskets. The idea is to replace them all rather than trying to diagnose the exact source of the problem. Dismantle the faucet, laying the parts out in order on a paper towel. Snap a photo or draw a sketch to help you with reassembly. Replace the old parts, put the faucet back together and turn the water back on.
For older faucets with independent hot and cold water faucets, shut off the water under the sink as before then dismantle each of the sink's faucets separately. Remove the washers (rings made of rubber, plastic or brass), put them in a plastic sandwich bag and bring them to the hardware store to find replacements. Reassemble the faucets and turn the water back on.
If this seems like more trouble than you're willing to tackle, call a plumber. With no complications, a plumber can install the new parts in an hour, though most will bill you for an hour and a half minimum.
9. Renew dinged baseboards.
Beat-up baseboards detract greatly from the appearance of your home, and they're easy to spiff up. "All those little things tend to stand out," says Carroll. First, clean them to remove scrapes and smudges left by clawing pets and toddlers on wheels. Brake says a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponge works great on painted surfaces. Fill in dents with spackle, sand the baseboards smooth and repaint them. If you've lost the name of the original paint color, chip off a coin-sized bit, slip it into an envelope and bring it to the paint store where you can have the color computer matched.
Use primer before painting. Don't just retouch small areas; paint the entire piece of baseboard, from one end to the other. Choose a washable eggshell finish. White is a great choice for making baseboards and trim look crisp and clean.
10. Repair cabinet scratches.
You can quickly improve the look of unpainted woodwork and worn cabinets with an application of products that even out the surface color. Brake covers scratches on woodwork and cabinets with Old English Scratch Cover or a Tibet Almond Stick, a tight roll of cotton saturated in chemicals that the manufacturer, Zenith Chemical Works, says is a 100-year-old family formula. (You can find these at hardware and home-improvement stores.)
The almond stick goes on clear but covers scratches. "It's amazing," Brake says. Zenith owner Kim MacInnes says the almond stick works best with shallow surface scratches on dark finishes. It doesn't work in every case, he says, and even a good result may fade with time and need to be reapplied periodically.
Old English makes separate formulations for light or dark wood. These are oily stains, so use them carefully. Try out any products first in a corner where results will not be noticed. Do not use the dark stain on light wood. Finally, polish wood cabinets to a glow with lemon oil.
10 must-do repairs before selling - MSN Real Estate
Tuesday, January 29, 2013
Nine million-dollar homes sell in Boulder
BOULDER - Nine homes in the city of Boulder sold for more than $1 million in December, bringing the total number of homes in that price range to 127 for the year, according to a survey of high-end home sales by Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage in Denver.
The number of $1 million-plus sales in Boulder was down one from November, but up from the four sold in December 2011.
The city of Boulder ranked third on the list of December sales behind Denver, where there were 17 million-dollar sales, and Greenwood Village, where there were 11.
Across the metro Denver area, 65 homes sold for more than $1 million in December, up from 60 in November and 41 in December 2011.
In Boulder County as a whole, 11 properties eclipsed the $1 million mark in December, with the other sales occurring in Lafayette and Longmont. One property in Broomfield County sold for $1.22 million.
The report is compiled from Multiple Listing Service data.
The top selling property was a $4.75 million, eight-bedroom, 12,000-square-foot home at 8925 Mountain View Lane in Boulder. Scott Franklund of Legendary Properties/Coldwell Banker Previews International was the listing agent.
Boulder County Business Report | Today's News | Nine million-dollar homes sell in Boulder
The number of $1 million-plus sales in Boulder was down one from November, but up from the four sold in December 2011.
The city of Boulder ranked third on the list of December sales behind Denver, where there were 17 million-dollar sales, and Greenwood Village, where there were 11.
Across the metro Denver area, 65 homes sold for more than $1 million in December, up from 60 in November and 41 in December 2011.
In Boulder County as a whole, 11 properties eclipsed the $1 million mark in December, with the other sales occurring in Lafayette and Longmont. One property in Broomfield County sold for $1.22 million.
The report is compiled from Multiple Listing Service data.
The top selling property was a $4.75 million, eight-bedroom, 12,000-square-foot home at 8925 Mountain View Lane in Boulder. Scott Franklund of Legendary Properties/Coldwell Banker Previews International was the listing agent.
Boulder County Business Report | Today's News | Nine million-dollar homes sell in Boulder
Friday, January 25, 2013
Emergency Kit for Your Home
Take time to evaluate your home's emergency kit. A battery-powered
radio, a first-aid kit, blankets, several gallons of fresh water, tools
for shutting off gas and water lines, candles and matches, flashlights
and batteries should all be included. Check the batteries — they can
drain with time, even if not used. If you live in an area with extremely
cold winters, make sure you have a backup heat supply, whether it's a
wood stove and a well-stocked woodshed, or a backup generator. If you
live in hurricane country, keep a supply of plywood for protecting
windows. Residents of earthquake-vulnerable areas should have water and
food to last several days. If you are a camper, consider keeping your
camping supplies near your emergency stash — camp stoves, waterproof
matches and tarps are all items that could come in handy should disaster
strike.
Wednesday, January 16, 2013
The Dreaded Frozen Pipe
In cold and warmer climates alike, pipes freeze for a combination of
three central reasons: quick drops in temperature, poor insulation, and
thermostats set too low. Both plastic and copper pipes can burst when
they freeze, and recovering from frozen pipes is not as simple as
calling a plumber. A 1/8-inch crack in a pipe can spew up to 250 gallons
of water a day, causing flooding, serious structural damage, and the
immediate potential for mold. You can
prepare by protecting your home during the warmer months. Here’s how:
Here are a few more things to add to your winter to-do list:
- Insulate pipes in your home's crawl spaces and attic, even if you live in a climate where freezing is uncommon. Exposed pipes are most susceptible to freezing. Remember: The more insulation you use, the better protected your pipes will be.
- Heat tape or thermostatically controlled heat cables can be used to wrap pipes. Be sure to use products approved by an independent testing organization, such as Underwriters Laboratories Inc., and only for the use intended (exterior or interior). Closely follow all manufacturers' installation and operation instructions.
- Seal leaks that allow cold air inside near where pipes are located. Look for air leaks around electrical wiring, dryer vents, and pipes, and use caulk or insulation to keep the cold out. With severe cold, even a tiny opening can let in enough cold air to cause a pipe to freeze.
- Before winter hits, disconnect garden hoses and, if possible, use an indoor valve to shut off and drain water from pipes leading to outside faucets. This reduces the chance of freezing in the short span of pipe just inside the house.
- If you turn on your faucets and nothing comes out, leave the faucets turned on and call a plumber.
- Do not use electrical appliances in areas of standing water: You could be electrocuted.
- Never try to thaw a pipe with a torch or other open flame because it could cause a fire hazard. Water damage is preferable to burning down your house!
- You may be able to thaw a frozen pipe with the warm air from a hair dryer. Start by warming the pipe as close to the faucet as possible, working toward the coldest section of pipe.
- If your water pipes have already burst, turn off the water at the main shutoff valve in the house; leave the water faucets turned on. Make sure everyone in your family knows where the water shutoff valve is and how to open and close it.
Here are a few more things to add to your winter to-do list:
- Clean lint from under laundry appliances, especially the dryer, carefully work the cleaning tool down into the lint filter; outdoors, clean the dryer vent outlet, reaching as far as possible into the pipe.
- Check your furnace filter monthly in the winter to see if it needs replacing.
- Examine the ducts of your forced-air furnace and seal any leaks with duct tape.
- Use a vacuum-cleaner tool or a long-handled brush to clean under and behind the refrigerator, including the coils.
Tuesday, January 8, 2013
Tuesday, January 1, 2013
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