Irrigation Practices

Did you know that watering too much or too little is the cause of many common plant health problems? You can have healthier plants, save money on water bills, and conserve precious water resources by learning to give your lawn and garden just what they need, and no more.

• Less is more - If you step on your lawn and the grass springs back, it does not need to be watered. In addition to wasting water, over-watering can increase leaching of fertilizers into ground water and can harm your lawn and plants. Watering plants too much and too frequently also results in shallow roots, weed growth, disease, and fungus. Familiarize yourself with the settings on your irrigation controller and adjust the watering schedule regularly to conform with seasonal weather conditions.
  
  
• Use alternative sources of water - To further reduce your water consumption, consider using alternative sources of irrigation water, such as gray water, reclaimed water, and collected rainwater via rain barrels. Most of the water we use to irrigate landscapes is treated, potable drinking water. By reducing the amount of drinking water used for landscape irrigation, we reduce the burden on water treatment facilities, which helps reduce the need for water treatment works expansion. Homes with access to alternative sources of irrigation water can reduce their water bills significantly. However, in some drought-prone localities, reclaiming water is not allowed; therefore, check with public health or municipal officials before using alternative sources of water. Information on local water regulations may be available on local government Web sites.
  
  
• Make every drop count - The typical single-family suburban household uses at least 30 percent of their water for irrigation. Some experts estimate that more than 50 percent of landscape water goes to waste due to evaporation or runoff caused by over-watering. Easy ways to lower water bills and get more water to plants include:
  
  - Water in the early morning-if you water at mid-day, much of the water just evaporates. Evening watering should be avoided because it can encourage the growth of mold or plant diseases.
  
  - Water lawns separately from other plantings. Make sure sprinklers are not watering pavement.
  
  - Water new trees and shrubs longer and less frequently than shallow-rooted plants, which require smaller amounts of water more often. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems for trees and shrubs. Note: Once established, trees and shrubs in many areas of the U.S. generally do not require any watering, exceptions being arid regions.
  
  - When using a hose, control the flow with an automatic shut-off nozzle.
  
  - Minimize or eliminate chemical fertilizing, which artificially promotes new growth that will need additional watering.
  
  - Raise your lawn mower cutting height - longer grass blades help shade each other, reduce evaporation, and inhibit weed growth.
  
  - When soil is dry or compacted, it won't absorb water quickly. If water puddles, stop watering until the water has time to soak in.
  
  - Amend your soil with compost and mulch to hold water and reduce evaporation.
  
  - When outdoor use of city or well water is restricted during a drought, use the leftover water from the bath or sink on plants or the garden. Don't use water that contains bleach, automatic-dishwashing detergent, fabric softener, or other chemicals.
  
  - In a dry spell, you can also allow an established lawn to go dormant in non-arid parts of the country. Water just once a month and brown areas of the lawn will bounce back in the fall. 

Source: http://www.epa.gov

Water-Efficient Irrigation

With common watering practices, a large portion of the water applied to lawns and gardens is not absorbed by the plants. It is lost through evaporation, runoff, or by watering too quickly or in excess of the plants' needs. Efficient irrigation systems and practices reduce these losses by applying only as much water as is needed to keep your plants and lawn healthy.

Although not watering your lawn, garden, or other landscape is the most water-efficient practice, sometimes irrigation is necessary. Irrigating lawns, gardens, and landscapes can be accomplished either manually or with an automatic irrigation system.

Manual watering - Manual watering with a hand-held hose tends to be the most water-efficient method, as households that manually water with a hose typically use 33 percent less water outdoors than those who use an automatic irrigation system. Households with automatic timers use 47 percent more water; those with in-ground sprinkler systems use 35 percent more water; and those with drip irrigation systems use 16 percent more water than households that manually water.

Automatic irrigation systems - Drip-type irrigation systems, including water efficient spray heads, are considered the most efficient of the automated irrigation methods because they deliver water directly to the plants' roots. In-ground sprinkler and drip irrigation systems need to be operated and maintained properly to be water-efficient. Install system controllers such as rain sensors that prevent sprinklers from turning on during and immediately after rainfall, or soil moisture sensors that activate sprinklers only when soil moisture levels drop below pre-programmed levels.

While controllers come in all types of shapes and sizes, the most important features are how well they can be programmed to handle diverse landscape and weather conditions. Consider purchasing one with a weather-based controller. It is also important to revise your watering schedule as the seasons change. Over-watering with automated sprinklers is most common during the spring and fall because irrigation schedules are set to summer watering needs.

Source: http://www.epa.gov

Xeriscape

Re-naturalize your lawn or xeriscape
 
In many areas of the country, including the Northeast, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and Pacific Northwest, you can convert areas of your lawn to a more natural landscape by allowing the area to grow as it would if the lawn were not there. Don't mow, fertilize or apply pesticides. Don't rake leaves. Spread mulch if you want to help kill back the grass within the naturalizing area. With time (2-5 years), this will allow native plants to take root, re-establish their presence through succession, as well as help restore natural habitat. This also means you'll use less fertilizer and pesticides and you won't have to mow the re-naturalized area! Although the re-naturalized area may not appear very attractive for a while (and a neighbor may even raise a comment or two), it can help to spread mulch and plant some ornamental plants appropriate for your climate to give the re-naturalizing area a garden-like appearance as it gets established. You can do as much of this as you wish to achieve a happy balance between a totally natural look and a garden look. Once the native vegetation has replaced the lawn, small shrubs, vines, bushes, trees and other natural vegetation will dominate and create a maintenance-free portion of your yard. Eventually the vegetation will grow thick and dense and provide a nice visual screen or green buffer between your home and surrounding properties when leafed-out. Re-naturalized areas help to absorb rainwater better than lawns and can lead to less storm water runoff from your property. Once you have achieved the desired size of the re-naturalized area, you can encircle it with field stone or other edging materials, if you wish.

Also consider re-naturalizing areas with steep slopes, shade, or along streams and lakes, where it takes a lot of extra work to maintain grass. Leaving, or creating, a "buffer" of dense native vegetation along streams and lakes will filter and slow runoff, shade and cool the water, provide homes for wildlife, and prevent stream bank erosion.

In arid parts of the country such as the West, Southwest, and Rocky Mountain regions, consider xeriscaping, a cost-effective and increasing popular landscaping option. Xeriscaping takes many forms but is defined as landscape design tailored to withstand drought conditions, by using draught tolerant plants and grouping plants with similar watering needs. Xeriscaped landscapes also require little or no fertilizer or pesticides, and have lower maintenance needs than lawns.

Source: http://www.epa.gov

Landscaping and Irrigation

Of the 26 billion gallons of water consumed daily in the United States, approximately 7.8 billion gallons, or 30 percent, is devoted to outdoor uses. The majority of this is used for irrigation. In the summer, the amount of water used outdoors by a household can exceed the amount used for all other purposes in the entire year. This is especially true in hot, dry climates.
Many people believe that stunning gardens and beautiful lawns are only possible through extensive watering, fertilization, and pesticide application. However, eye-catching gardens and landscapes that save water, prevent pollution, and protect the environment are, in fact, easily achieved. The following are some water-efficient landscaping and irrigation methods.

Choose climate-appropriate, drought-tolerant, and native/adapted plant species The typical suburban lawn consumes 10,000 gallons of water above and beyond rainwater each year. Using native plants and landscape designs that optimize local conditions can reduce irrigation water use, as well as reduce soil erosion, lower maintenance costs, and preserve natural resources.

Reduce turf grass areas
How and where turf is placed in the landscape has a significant impact on the amount of irrigation water needed to support the landscape. Lawns require a large amount of supplemental water and generally more intensive maintenance than other vegetation. Use turf grass where it aesthetically highlights your house and where it has a practical function, such as in play or recreation areas. Grouping turf areas can increase watering efficiency and significantly reduce evaporative and runoff losses. Select a type of grass that can withstand drought periods and become dormant during hot, dry seasons. Consider replacing Kentucky blue grass (the most common turf outside of the Southern U.S.) with low water grasses. There are now many options widely available that demand up to 2/3 less water. Appropriate amounts of water and the natural dormant periods mean the grass will go brown during the summer, but watering it once a month will allow it to spring back later.

Plant shrubs, trees and other vegetation in place of lawns or bare, eroding areas
Trees, shrubs, or other leafy plants help absorb, intercept and slow down rainfall, thereby reducing runoff. After a rainfall, large quantities of water are retained on the surface of leaves in the form of droplets. Subsequently, plants help control storm water runoff. Plants also absorb carbon dioxide (a principle greenhouse gas), and they help cool the earth's surface; both functions help to reduce global warming.

Source: http://www.epa.gov

A Few Thoughts on Ladder Safety

Ladders are tools. Many of the basic safety rules that apply to most tools also apply to the safe use of a ladder:

• If you feel tired or dizzy, or are prone to losing your balance, stay off the ladder.
• Do not use ladders in high winds or storms.
• Wear clean slip-resistant shoes. Shoes with leather soles are not appropriate for ladder use since they are not considered sufficiently slip-resistant.
• Before using a ladder, inspect it to confirm it is in good working condition.
• Ladders with loose or missing parts must be rejected.
• Rickety ladders that sway or lean to the side must be rejected.
• The ladder you select must be the right size for the job
• The Duty Rating of the ladder must be greater that the total weight of the climber, tools, supplies, and other objects placed upon the ladder.
• The length of the ladder must be sufficient so that the climber does not have to stand on the top rung or    step.
• When the ladder is set-up for use, it must be placed on firm level ground and without any type of slippery condition present at either the base or top support points.
• Only one person at a time is permitted on a ladder unless the ladder is specifically designed for more than one climber (such as a Trestle Ladder).
• Ladders must not be placed in front of closed doors that can open toward the ladder. The door must be blocked open, locked, or guarded.
• Read the safety information labels on the ladder.
• The on-product safety information is specific to the particular type of ladder on which it appears. The    climber is not considered qualified or adequately trained to use the ladder until familiar with this    information.
• Never jump or slide down from a ladder or climb more than one rung/step at a time.

When climbing a ladder, it is safest to utilize Three Points-of-Contact because it minimizes the chances of slipping and falling from the ladder. At all times during ascent or descent, the climber must face the ladder and have two hands and one foot, or two feet and one hand in contact with the ladder cleats and/or side rails. In this way, the climber is not likely to become unstable in the event one limb slips during the climb. It is important to note that the climber must not carry any objects in either hand that can interfere with a firm grip on the ladder. Otherwise, Three Points-of-Contact with the ladder cannot be adequately maintained and the chance of falling is increased in the event a hand or foot slip occurs. Factors contributing to falls from ladders include haste, sudden movement, lack of attention, the condition of the ladder (worn or damaged), the user’s age or physical condition, or both, and the user’s footwear.

Although the user’s weight or size typically does not increase the likelihood of a fall, improper climbing posture creates user clumsiness and may cause falls. Reduce your chances of falling during the climb by:

• wearing slip-resistant shoes with heals and heavy soles to prevent foot fatigue;
• cleaning the soles to maximize traction;
• using towlines, a tool belt or an assistant to convey materials so that the climbers hands are free when climbing;
• climbing slowly and deliberately while avoiding sudden movements;
• keeping the center of your belt buckle (stomach) between the ladder side rails (or within the width of the cleats) when climbing and while working. Do not overreach or lean while working so that you don’t fall off the ladder sideways. 
  

  Source: http://www.laddersafety.org

The Gutters...

Clean guttersTake advantage of dry weather to clear out leaves, needles and debris, leaving gutters free to carry rainwater away and protect your home from mold and rot. Depending on your home's surroundings, you should do this several times a year. Hire someone (around $50 to $100) or get a stable ladder (and someone to hold it) and do it yourself. Use a garden trowel or your (gloved) hands to muck out the debris. Scrub gutters with a non-metallic brush. Slosh water from a hose through the gutters and the drainpipes to finish the job and test that they're clear and that water is flowing away from your basement, foundation or crawl space.

Inspect gutters
While you're at it, inspect the gutters. Look for joints separating, loose connections and attachments, sags, dips and corrosion. Tighten or reattach loose gutter connections. Clean out downspout ends (also called "leaders"). These should extend out at least 3 feet at the ground, though some experts suggest 5 or 10 feet. The idea is to prevent water from running back to your home's foundation.  At the same time, take care that your downspouts don't drain onto your neighbors' property, causing problems for them. Some cities have ordinances regulating the distance you can discharge your gutters from your property line (ask for details at the city planning department). After you've cleaned and repaired your gutters, test them by having someone run a hose into the gutters while you walk around the house, looking for leaks and observing where the water drains. Or walk around the house to check during the next heavy rainstorm.

Source: Marilyn Lewis of MSN Real Estate